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Using the AMZ splitter, I think this works. Any suggestions?

To do monitor output (tuning unmuted), I think I need a splitter. AMZ has a JFET splitter option. Where could I find an op amp splitter circuit? PPCB has a splitter, but the schematic isn’t posted @Robert

Yeah LCD displays are notorious for noise. We found a 5khz noise in our display and was able to turn it off through programming. We have a separate ground for the display, we think this has the noise issue covered. But I’ll try what you suggest.

That IS the plan. My partner @joulupukki and I Hope to offer a DIY kit… we’re getting close. Couple more months maybe. I think our tuning algorithm and smoothing is AS GOOD or possibly BETTER than the top 3. (Turbo, Peterson, Polytune3). I’m a tuning snob, but I find I prefer tuning with Qtune...

Here's my tuner, I have 2 prototypes. The one on the right I've modified to add a J201 fet buffer (post #1) on the output. Currently the board has an LM358 and uses 1 op amp for the tuning circuit gain and the other as a buffer into the ESP32 that processes the tuning. I played through it on my...

Good read. So which version (fet or opamp) would color my tone the least? It looks like the PPCB one I show above, is the front end of the Dr. Quack Envelop Filter.

Anyone care to compare/contrast the PPCB Mini JFET Buffer with others. It's really simple. What are it's limitations? Wanting to add it to a True Bypass tuner.

Anyone know what kind of momentary TCE uses on the Polytune 3? I'm assuming it's mounted to a PCB on a 90 degree angle. 3 is tuning mode 5 is display mode

It was R20! I had 392R instead of 392k. What oddball sizes, I'm shocked I had both. I made the same mistake on a previous build. I checked the color codes of all the resistor and the Orange White Red was right, just missed the multiplier.

You are spot on. Before R16 I get a nice strong signal. But the junction between R16 and IC2APin2, I get nothing. Then on IC2APin1, I get a faint signal. So C12, R17, R18? Or possibly R7, R19 or C16, that's the tantalum cap that I replaced with an electrolytic? I should note the volume pot does...

Yes the volume and gain work. And yes it’s much quieter when engaged than when bypassed.

I've built 3 Aion Refractors. First one worked great (amazing pedal). 2nd one didn't at all (troubleshot for weeks). 3rd one kinda works, but there is a large gain difference between ON and Bypassed. More noticeable in Buffered mode obviously, but still there in TB. I have double checked...

Well yes but a little different than a guitar pedal. A multimeter on a battery can last a year or more. Probably same with this tone generator because it isn't on for hours at a time like a guitar pedal. When I turn my pedalboard on for a gig it's on for 5-6 hours, probably like most musicians...

Yeah... I noticed that in the Coming Soon section. Waiting for build documents!

Yeah some of the VooDoo supplies have a SAG feature, never used it. But for fuzz I can see it. But I am surprised to see a lot of the DIY builds (Aion, PPCB) do allow for the battery option if needed. Like you say, the exception... maybe 1% of all pedals built actually use the battery?!? Just...

I don't get why people STILL use batteries. Buy a decent power supply and be done with it. A daisy chained one-spot is fine for many situations, or get an isolated supply. Maybe I'm missing something.

Interesting. Good find.

Nah, that's a Hammond 1590A. Probably.

Anyone know what enclosure the Peterson Mini is? 1.8"w x 3.7" tall 46mm x 94mm

@Robert is your frequency generator based on 0805? So I should get the 0805 amazon kit instead of the 1206?