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Just messaged with Juan on madbean and he said the following. Seems okay to share and possibly useful to anyone who needs the info: Just had a quick look at what you're doing (adding a variable mids pot to a muff stack). The C500 pot is very important, if you deviate from that the frequency of...

Thank you! Has anyone used the ultrastoner mids? What did you think? Any comparison to the hoof mids? In my build, I have found that I really like just working with the C13 cap (on the mudbunny layout) for either flat or boosted mids. Not sure if I need to do a whole mids pot, but I've been...

Dan, do you know the Ultrastoner mids tonestack values? I have heard that it is a very good mids knob and would like to replicate it in a build.

I think that maybe the ideal test, if the cap values add up, is to hook up my looper to the open pedal and send a bass loop through. Then just try a few different caps and press the leads up against the sides of the SMD cap to see how that changes things.

There are literally 100 plumes for sale right now on Reverb... so I'm probably not going to sell it. So likely option 2. Adding a cap in parallel is a good idea!

Gonna have to try this tonight... I have an actual Plumes pedal that I'm going to mod-- and build a greengage if I can't. The eqd photos all had through hole components, but my pedal is SMD. I can see that you can carefully make regular caps work here... will just have to figure that out...

Here's what he just posted to talkbass: I would up C1 anywhere from 220nf-1uf and C4 up to 470-680nf, but i'd experiment to taste

To be fair to John, sometimes I think he does the mod that sounds good and then doesn't really write down what he does and that's why he can't share it. For his pork loin mod, he documented that one pretty well.

I need to go higher than 100n, so seems like 470-220 is a good range to try.

Looks like the Dwarven Hammer uses a 220n in a similar spot on the schematic. I'm not great at reading schematics, but that seems close to where I'd want to be looking. 330n on the stockade.

Sounds like I should have a go at socketing C4 to try some different values. I do wonder what two resistors John K replaced, though.

Thank you for the response! What would you change C4 and R6 to? Over on PCB Effects layouts, the suggestion is to change C4 to "anything from 1 to 10uF"

Has anyone done this? It sounds "fine" but has some low end loss that could be fixed. JohnK over on talkbass said that it's just 2 caps and a resistor... but that's an old thread and he may not respond to a query on what caps to change. Any thoughts? Is it just C1 and C6?

thanks!

Just built a son of ben and it sounds very good. I did notice that when the drive is all the way down, it cuts the volume. Is that normal? Also, I adjusted Q1 to 5.1 V / and Q 2 and 3 adjusted to 4 V each.

Actually, SmallBear has a 125BB that may be what I'm looking for: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/125-bb/ And with a chrome powder coat: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/chrome-powder-coat-multiple-sizes/

I saw some build reports with that... I'd rather not put it off board to make the build more rock solid.

Thanks! One question... the Simulcast needs to be in a taller box, right? IT won't into a BB with the transformer. Is that right? Just trying to plan this out. It's for bass playing.

Just emailed with Steve at Smallbear and he said that they have an equivalent to the transformer for the simulcast: http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/transformer-1-1-for-direct-boxes/

Has anyone put these two circuits in the same box? Are they too similar for it to make sense? Or are they different and complimentary enough?