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I'm not totally sure about that extra diode, but my guess is it's being used for ground isolation on pin3 of the MN3102 in the later design. So, a little extra insurance to prevent any ground loops or possible clock noise. IOW, the diode prevents any stray current present in DC ground getting to...

1/8W is perfectly fine. 1/4W will probably have a slightly lower noise threshold, but that is true for any bit of audio electronics. However, the DM2 itself already has a lot of noise suppression built into the design via the compander.

I do, usually. Either a pour or as traces. I've done it both ways.

IMO, it makes sense to use trimmers if you are trying to achieve a specific bias voltage because that value may not be a common one for a fixed resistor. This kind of ignores that bias in germanium devices will drift with temperature, though. If you really want to be a super fancy pants kind of...

The peak detection circuit and decay have already been discussed. But would a variable resistor in place of R9 allow for some useful "attack" control?

The single ended version looks very promising. Great work, Chuck!

Big Nasty Clang is a perfect summary of the Brassmaster. Some go-getter should do a version with added expression pedal control. Not me, though.

I do regret selling my OG Tim I bought from Paul. The DIY versions I've built have all be great but I have a sentimental attachment to the original. I used it on a couple records we made way back when. Shoulda kept it.

That's great work. Clean inside and out!

It's a surprisingly good sounding flanger, IMO. I'm happy it worked out for you.

I do. It should correspond to the first version of the Tim (minus the fx loop), although I did include my own clipping mod on the project. Feel free to use the schematic to build your own vero/PCB if you like.

Excellent, thanks DL. I need to dig back into SpinCAD and this is the perfect reason to get motivated. I will happily throw in a donation.

Glad you are digging it even though I low-key hate looking at my PCB layout work from so long ago. The electrolytic caps should all face down :)

Same same. But, I still find ISO with a toothbrush then a water wash finisher gives the best results. It makes the solder joints look dull but they are very clean.

I think I designed one to fit in my Standard Series of 1590B projects. I'll check. There's a bunch of those I still haven't released. Update: yeah I have one. It's the revised design from Bajaman that includes a tone control but all the same circuitry is still there.

I use an external 2TB WD Passport over USB3 for automated backups. Not a single glitch in 11 years.

In situations like this the first thing I do is make sure I haven't made a mistake in the actual measurement. Are you getting no reading or 0v reading on the right side of that resistor? The second thing I would do is pop all the ICs from their sockets and measure on the +9v connections of the...

The Aquaboy Deluxe became the Anamorph. Same basic DM-2 circuit with stereo output, better tweaks and better modulation. IMO, at least. I've built most of L'Ectric FX analog delay projects and they are all great, too.

I haven't tried this but you could mess with the collector/base feedback resistor (1M). Try both higher and lower values to skew the overall "feel" of the 8bit control. We toyed around with redesigning the Filter switch to make it produce more of a "parked wah" tone but it never went anywhere...