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Tough question. Things that die from overheating will probably be protected. Things that die from electrical overstress could die in milliseconds and the fuse probably won't help. The resettable fuse is there to prevent wire insulation from melting, traces from frying, that sort of thing...

If you want to compare this with a similar circuit, check out the TC Electronics Spark Booster (PPCB Ember Boost) or the Black Country Customs TI-Boost (PPCB Dark Esbat).

The only place I tried it in the BM2 is the 1st stage and it reduced the compression a bit. Completely different circuit, different parts. and I removed both diodes, not just half of them. And yes, the BM2 is still on the breadboard and is featured in The Boneyard.

Going by your Vero layout, the DIODE switch selects either D5+D6 or D7 or none of them. In the D5+D6 setting, there's a good chance that the opamp output is saturating on the positive half-cycle. In the "no diodes" setting, I guarantee that opamp output is saturating on the positive...

Or anything in that ballpark.

Gnarly!

I don't understand why changing the diodes would cause it to gate.

it's rare that the pedal current is over 100mA, so if you can get a resettable in that range, great. I have some 1.85A resettables, which is kinda high, but still provides sufficient protection. The 10Ω resistor is convenient, I had some laying around and it does the job without dropping too...

Guitar PCB offered this PCB as a bonus during a recent promotion. It's an interesting all-opamp version of the traditional BMP architecture. Note the diode soft-clipping on three stages, instead of the usual two. The gain is throttled in the 1st stage feedback loop, instead of between stages...

Are they friendly? :LOL:

You MIGHT find a J113 that will work. Try different ones until you get something between 5V and 6V on Q1-D. Try some 2N5485s. Use the values for R2 & R4 cited in post #1. Try different ones until you get the desired drain voltage. The gain will be a little lower with 2N5485, but that...

Yeah, more or less. Usually somewhere between 1/2 & 2/3 Vcc is good. Start there and tune by ear. Q3/Q4 bias themselves. Nothing to do there except make sure Q3 has a higher Idss than Q4.

Hmmmm. That kinda violates the generally accepted rule for stomp switches: Each Stomp Switch should have at least one knob associated with it that governs its actions. Examples: Volume, Gain. There are exceptions, such as A/B switches or the MUTE switch on a Tuner. The effect of that toggle...

Yes indeed, way loud. You could put a resistor in series with C4 to reduce the max volume.

I use a liquid flux that I obtained from work. Not sure which brand. I thin it a bit with isopropyl and apply it to SMD pads with a toothpick.

I seriously doubt it. No. Installing a JET necessitates either removing or reversing D1 because when biased into the linear mode, Vgs on an N-channel MOSFET is positive and Vgs on an N-channel JFET is negative. JFETs are not nearly as sensitive to ESD as MOSFETs, so I chose to remove D1. The...

OK, I just wanted to see if there was anything else that might have contributed to a pop when switching. I don't build stuff if I don't have a schematic, but that's just me.

Try not switching the power to the Cab Sim. That is very likely the cause of the *POP* and it's not necessary. Can you show us the Headphone Amp schematic?

With the booster, this is a pretty high-gain circuit. Here's the difficulty when adding a switch or pot to the hard clipping diodes: the volume coming out of the hard clipper is no longer limited by the diodes. Disconnecting or fading out the diodes raises the volume substantially. We then...

Purty!