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Snapped off a tube socket solder tab on this Kay 703C that I'm "restoring", which is more like fumbling around and fixing the things that I break or burn ;) Fortunately, it looks like eBay has my back: https://www.ebay.com/itm/156110381163

Necro thread bump. This is the solder that came with my Xtronic station. I've found it easy to use as well: https://www.amazon.com/AUSTOR-60-40-Solder-Electrical-Soldering/dp/B073LHK99Z/

There was a whole line a few years ago: compressor, drive, boost, distortion, delay, even a looper...

Digging this back up. Finally completed my all-DIY board: Metallic candy blue: Tactical fuzz Yellow: General Tso compressor Metallic candy purple: Fordoble boost + drive Viola pink: Electric Canary Iridescent delay Pastel violet: Caesar chorus Pastel light green: Trembling Loon tremolo All on...

Thanks! Appreciate the rundown on your process. My Hellhound has radial caps, so I'll have to research best practice for removing these bad boys...

Nice work! I have a Reverend Hellhound that needs a recap and a Blues Junior III that needs some mods. I'm hesitant to get started out of fear of lifting pads when I desolder the old caps. Can you share a little more about your desoldering process?

Dude, thank you, seriously. I called Supply House, gave them model and serial number off the boiler, and they confirmed that the part you linked to is the correct replacement. Now I just need to call the HVAC company and get them to install a customer-supplied part. Not sure I want to DIY this...

I was secretly hoping you'd respond. It's a Carrier-branded boiler, Q90-125 series. Trying to get the part number from the tech to confirm...

Inducer motor on our boiler started making noise. Just found out it's $3k for a new motor. Boiler is 20 years old... do I fix it or replace the whole damn thing?

Following up with my experience. I bought four NPN Ge transistors from this seller a couple months ago. All test good, low leakage, the leads are long enough for sockets, and they sound good in the Tactical Fuzz I just built. I have noticed that the gains of all four are between 25%-40% lower...

Oof, that's a bummer. Looks like a good job for Ruckus, Appleman, Calfee, etc.

How bad is the top tube crack? You might want to consider a professional repair... Carbon failures tend to be sudden and catastrophic.

By coincidence, I just finished a Tactical Fuzz tonight. I'm getting great cleanup from the volume pot, just like the Tacit Blue demos on YouTube. Gain for Q1 is in the high 80's, while Q2 is around 120. Both are low leakage and biased easily to 4.5V. If you haven't, take a look at the RG Keen...

Thanks for the explanation. I'm hoping for something even more basic - no switch, just an always on buffer in a minimal enclosure. I just found this diagram in another thread. I think this is what I'm after?

Thank you! Dumb question, but do you still need the 3PDT switch in this scenario? If so, can you jumper the switch pads to eliminate it?

I ditch the flat washer and just use the nut on top. Lock washer goes goes on the inside, natch.

Hi all, I'm building a Tactical Fuzz (Thorpy Tacit Blue), which is basically an NPN Ge Fuzz Face with a 42TL019 transformer. I also have a C-Buffer board that I never got around to installing in anything. Would it be unwise to build the C-Buffer into the fuzz? I like the idea of having it at...

Rhett Shull will go to Plan B.

R23 is just below the B100K Boost pot. Here's a pic of a jumper in this location. The Boost pot at minimum is now unity volume. Thanks for the tip @Robert!

Based on the recommendation above, I pulled the 33n at C17 and installed a socket. Plugging a 82n into this location brought the low end back to the vibrato signal. Thanks @phi1!