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@Hal Harvey I looked for AC ripple on bias circuit, but measurements were little weird as there was no signs about ripple after first filter cap, but the other tube pair bias lead had 0.3VAC presents occasinally and DMM made beep about OL few times. The suspected ripple was after second bias...

Seems like my Simms-Watts suffered from too much gain. Didn’t go with the plan I made before because after looking into topologies of triode stages I figured my second tube missed resistor before master volume and between halves. I also added extra grid stoppers, 10K on V1 and 22K on V2. Moved...

If postage/import tax isn’t bad, this Finnish store could be an option. They have quite competitive pricing for amp kits: https://en.uraltone.com/kits/bass-amp-and-cab-kits.html

I topped up screen resistor to 470R/5W year ago. Really should check ’em, thanks for heads up! PI tube same as before, another plate resistor was topped from 81K to 100K and snubber was removed. Maybe triode halves are way off from balance and resistors need to be mismatched. I have extras...

:D THERES JUST TOO MANY THINGS TO DO AND KIDS TO FEED. PRIORITIES MAN PRIORITIES! Btw, all didn’t go well this time. Had some problems during a test play. Clean sound was amazing, but when driven with square wave not so. Overall volume was also reduced and rising preamp gain caused outputs...

The parts for light bulb current limiter have been waiting to be assembled almost for a year now… So far doing first startup without pre and/or poweramp tubes in and measuring pin voltages on tube socket has been enough precaution. I do double or triple check parts changed and compare...

Yeah, I messed up terminology here big time. Grid is -60.19V!

Today had 10 mins in garage to do some amp work. Added 10 Kohm cement resistor across OT secondaries for protection as there was this one occasion I tried to raise guitar volume and amp was silent because speaker cord was off. 🤡 Also measured plate and anode voltage without power tubes. Plate...

Guess it depends mostly if using tried&done circuit design or planning a frankenamp. I’d go setting chassis dimensions roughly as area for layout, then go first for PT/OT placement, then setting external connections (jacks, sockets, switches) and after that start planning where to add circuit...

Checked schematic, if you turn mix down and turn volume all way up how is gain compared to bypassed signal? I’ve had bad pots and incorrectly oriented voltage regulator pins :)

Transistor pin orientation checked? Are ICs good, not fake? I know this isn’t what it looks like, but still cannot unsee cracked IC here. :D

Have you ever seen a thing called a schematic? :ROFLMAO: When you finally find one, open DIYLC and start planning. I found it time consuming and unmotivating, but in the end it rewards. Guess good planning makes job half done. Also remember Rob and Doug have collection of turret layouts to...

Sometimes I get cutoff when hitting preamp with some high gain input signal so revisiting bias and around PI is must for me. Off went PI anode balancing pF cap. Reduced bias circuit uFs drastically and divided it across wipers with separate caps. Added 3x4007 series diodes across anode and gnd...

Merlin’s new book is ass. Going through it has made me come to conclusion that I’ve made and my amp makers have done stupid choices. Now I’m fixing these thing one by one and I really want to get rid of this original PCB and rework whole circuit to turret board. It’s sp hard to add extra...

4 preamp tubes for one reverb. Really? What I miss here? I know MOD unit aims for compatibility about where it’s placed in chain, but that amount of dual triodes would be enough for a complete preamp with PI included.

Still waiting to hear Ionosphere with a tube amp, but quick test releaved more note clarity than in transistor muffs with sustain dimed.

Not a headache, but I’d like it to be the cause. Saw 70s Traynor mixer available locally with a hefty 200$ price and a mention about being unused for two decades. Went asking if cap job has been done it, the seller didn’t know what I’m asking and I responded with short education about power...

90% of my playing is through Megalith. I try to like my Rat, Muff etc and stack ’em for gnarly distortion, but nothing beats how Megalith sounds. Maybe I should build more Megaliths for different flavors of tone adjusted or just build The Gigalith with preadjusted tone settings on stomp...

But dude dont ya know toan is in fingers??? Back to track; I’m receiving ValveWizard Merlin’s new playbook today. (y)

Cut relief part in half, scrape cord channel clean and glue it back together over a new cord. Or use not-so-approved way with a knot relief mummified in heatshrink flavored with some hot glue. Guess safest would be a clamping relief, that’s my official recommendation. :rolleyes: