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Remove old solder and reflow these. OUT pad is worst and could cause static. Also cold soldered GND pads cause excessive resistance which is noise.

Fraction of my workbench area was covered in sealant as it always necessary to overinflate bike tyres just in case you’d forgotten how bad your tinnitus was. What’s weird my face isn’t covered with tire goo. 🤡

I used to believe in this, but there’s a real difference how copper traces heat and take solder. And it’s not about solder type, lack of flux or technique. :/ So sample vero/perf first if it’s workable before getting a stock.

Winspear and maybe some other too, drop A# with maybe 58-64 on heaviest and so on. Cannot recall exact setup, but pretensioning was done with a string tension calculator and some thought process before install!

Amazing guitar and that neck is temptating. I gave some play time for my 30” scale sixbeast yesterday, but damn that extra string lenght brings latency to palm muted picking. Had to change back to normal scale to get those chugs chugging how I like ’em.

I’ve browsed forum talks about using dual inputs in one amp, but most of the discussion is about multi/stereo amp setups. Guess I just need to experiment and plan how to make this thing workable for me.

Okay, routing drone master (rat) to treble ch and megalith (fuzzface) to normal was awesome. I used bypassed Malekko delay as a buffer before splitting signal to dirt pedals and yeah it was awesome. Noticed some thin and weird phased sounds when turning tone knob on rat, but tone turned...

I also did this stupid mistake, but with both channels treble and bass controls. Didn’t fix it as some of the tone stack components are soldered into pot lugs. Tomorrows gonna be another rehearsal day and having a second real play with my rebuild amp. Last time there I had planned to completely...

C6 is just for AC signal coupling. Better to match C6&11 values.

http://spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001/FV-1.pdf I’d try it with 470n caps. Or with 470n caps paralled through from top and bottom of the pcb for atleast c10.

Im so sorry I did this: Look up the fuzz face analysis on ElectroSmash site.

I’m have this idea of muff/rat on treble and fuzz face on normal ch. Shouldn’t it doom or what? :D

Quick question about parallel inputs (treble’n’bass) and signal splitting. Wise to do a splitter with a phase switch for separate fx chains between inputs to accommodate possible difference on count between phase flipping stages in pedals stacked?

Had rehearsals today and the amp worked as it should. Pedal board not so! Ride never ends, guess my wife loves this DIY thing too as much as I do! Edit. Oh and yeah I left my amp there not to be seduced by changing V2 plate and cathode resistor values… Maybe in future I’ll clip first halves...

Really? Haven’t crossed any thought for this as I trusted I’m all good by not soldering any leads on pots. But wouldn’t your suggestion need isolating pots from chassis with plastic washers and adding a strip wire through every pot or using a metal sheet with potholes? With current pots not...

Clean layout & build :D Almost all wires try to cross somewhere near 90 degree angle, fixed some cold solder joints, removed unnecessary shielded wiring, replaced with normal and added heater CT lift. I got almost all hum away, but not all. I’d say it belongs to the design because of V1b...

I didn’t fall for that this time. :D

No solution yet, but a breakthrough on where to look. Removed pre tubes and no screech/current sound. PI back in and all good. Biased el34 from 3% to 43% and it was considering max dis.limit as 22w instead 25w. Okay, then tried V2 back in, ringing sound back in running over current sounding...