I added a new demo recording in my build post, I think my entry is complete now.
I also put up a revised schematic, as I did an opamp swap to see if it would improve the noise floor. Maybe a tiny improvement, but if nothing else now it’s two of the same ones. Because it’s a surface mount part I...
This build was a bit of an ordeal, mostly self inflicted since I stuffed the components by memory, effed up two resistance values, and ended up having to pull everything apart four or five times, destroying a couple of pots in the process. But the good news is that I finally worked up a tuning...
My preferred solution is as unfashionable as it gets: side jacks and no bypass switch, or at most a well placed toggle and not a footswitch … ;)
I’ll show myself out now!
And I just might be able to get to that after all. Recent health issues were making it seem highly unlikely, but I knocked out about half the build this afternoon, so hopefully I’ll just need one more good day to get it done. Just more of the usual boring clean preamp shizz, but hey…that’s what...
I own around a dozen Hakko tips and change between my two primaries at least a few times a day if I’m working on any sort of extended project. I do have another tip reserved just for tinning wires, but one of my primaries works just as well for 22 or 24 AWG silicone wire, so I reserve the...
The fumes are very toxic and not compatible at all with my particular health issues. And in my case I just make the PCB holes the right size for the wire I'm using, which took a little tweaking but hasn't been an issue for years.
No idea, but manual tinning had been standard for me for over sixty years, so I never even think about it by now. More of a hassle with thinner gauges, but my default is 22 gauge for my own designs, which are 98% of what I build.
This is the best hand stripper I’ve found for teflon: https://www.markertek.com/product/pal-1113/paladin-1113-stripax-pro-6
You can find used ones easily enough, but the carbide cutter replacement sets are still $$$. And they do wear out fairly quckly, I think my 22ga. cartrridge was only good...
I just took took a look in my ancient folders and found the schematic that Ashly owner Bill Thompson gave me during a factory tour in something like 1979. But then I also found one online here: https://audioschematics.dk/downloadus/schematics/outboard/
It comes with several excellent ready to go programs, you needn't mess with that aspect at all. I didn't do any actual programming, just loaded one new test one into my unit remotely via a USB appliance they sent me.
Since I have five of these things I intend to try a lot of different implementations, including various standalone configurations. The Cioks C4 is super cool, but all the better if I don't need it. I have a little 30W Iniu dual port wall charger too, if I could eke out two isolated outputs at 9...
All the control inputs are straight up analog, so doing stuff like that is pretty simple in many cases. For more specialized cases you can burn new code and flash it remotely, which is how we implemented the panning feature.
There’s a beta test thread here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/digital-bbd-concept-looking-for-comments-and-beta-testers.18909/
Some serious health issues have derailed my big plans for these things for the moment, but my prototype build sounds phenomenal and I had a blast working with...
USB-C to 15V @ 2A PD trigger module, w/ added barrel plug to allow running my cheap Iniu power bank into a Cioks C4 pedalboard supply. The included case was very basic and I added Nomex insulation and some silicone goop to make things a little more real.
The module can be configured for 5...