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Looking good! One last and overlooked source of hum are the small ground loops you might have been the ground of the pot and the actual pot itself when it’s on a bare chassis. But if you are happy with it leave as is!

Finally started my build. I was sitting on everything except the replacement end bells for the PT so I thought... let's dodge the familly in law and hide in the workshop. (I also have to tolex the headshell but the woodworking is done on it). Sadly forgot to take pictures of the "clean" PCBs...

Are you sure the actual tube is good?

Is it a hum or more a squeal? Might be worth trying to swap OPT wires. Otherwise your wiring could easily be made way tidier really. It seems all the wires in and out of the PT are not twisted, and you have lone cables (I suppose signal cables) laying at 45° on top of heater wire etc. Did you...

God job! And Godspeed if you have to troubleshoot it ;)

I received my package! Updated PCB with less risk of arcing on some connections and more space between power tubes. The chassis from JLC is great. I did it with Fusion 3D and everything is on point. It feels very solid (2mm Alu) and the powder coating is great. I just have to grind a few...

Hooohhh. Which clone is it? Here is my contribution: Awesome quality from JLC on that chassis. Also patting myself on the back as every hole is where it should be and the size it should be.

Now THAT'S what I call stocking up on toilet paper.

We have a saying in French: “who can do the most, can do the least”. Or my version: “me stupid, tool good, output decent”. But I can only encourage you to give fusion another chance really. single or dual layer PCB and built in 3D render is piss easy. The only thing that ever gave me trouble...

I use it for tube amps but I do not see why Fusion couldn't do pedal. Your library is your only limitation really, and you can find footprints and even 3D models for 99% of pedal components. Hell the stock resistor / cap / Ecap libraries haven been sufficient and in the rare cases I don't find...

Well well well. Something to keep me busy waiting for the chassis and faceplate to arrive…

For a fender I would assume Warmoth is the obvious choice. Keep in mind that unless they have changed that, they do not do a fret level before delivery so a pro level afterwards might be necessary (200-250€?).

If I may add to their good advice: try to avoid a toggle switch and prefer a rotary to avoid accidental impedance switching, just in case. A proper rotary is like 2€.

Should have told him that he could find the complete details in the documentation obviously.

I use WD 40 and it works quite well.

I have been trying to catch up on those, it's pretty interesting and funny at the same time. Also Thermionic lab just answered my email and they will ship end bell replacements so I can try everything out. If it doesn't work due to internal damage, they will rebuild for me. So there is that...

I am going to try staying calm but FUCKING HELL HOW CAN GLS SUCK SO BADLY They managed to change the name on the shipping label to a mix of my first name and the sender's last name even though the initial label was 100% correct. So I had to play tricks to get the package. But it was also...

I heard (haha pun) their quality improved but I can’t vouch for that. Mine are less than a year old are sound fine with comparable gain to other offerings. But judging by the initial drift on my kt88 bias I would think they could do a better job burning tubes in.

I bought basically most of every modern and "cheap" 12ax7 to do some rolling and compare and to be honest, I haven't found huge difference between most of them. Between Psvane and JJ ECC83s (and some TAD premium) I'm perfectly happy. Ok maybe a LPS for fun or PI here and there too...

Hey at 300€ a pair and judging by the way things are going, they soon will be cheaper than a pair of KT88.