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How do you like the Black Pearl? I have one of the power amp boards, plus the matching power transformer and choke. I've been thinking about doing a DIY head or combo but am undecided between cloning the stock preamp config, doing an AC30 riff, or just rolling my own preamp design. The BP...

I've used the powder coated SBP "pro" enclosures a lot but typically have them drop shipped to Amplifyfun for drilling and printing anyway. The enclosures are still plenty robust, IME. And SBP are pretty quick on shipping as well. For me LMS is fairly often next day delivery though, for stuff I...

As far as digital pedals, I'm another one who generally prefers various delays. The CT3680 beta test pedal I built does that for me in stellar fashion, and I think the next one I build will be even better, as I won't be asking it to do chorus too. I do own an old Lexicon rack unit (MPX-550)...

500 watt bass head w/AudioKinesis Thunderchild 112AF cab: Traynor SB-200H in a DIY 110 cab two friends of mine built: Acoustic guitar cab, sealed 8" + 1", used with amp in first pic: Spark 2 for guitar and Dojo: 100 watt tube head sitting in pieces and ready for final...

All PCB shares, schematics, and Mouser BOMs on my Github repository now updated due to Wima 50v film cap discontinuations: https://github.com/Passinwind/PW3B-LPF

The vast majority of my builds are modular, and modding or near complete flushing of individual modules is routine. But rehousing is rare, and I often tend to keep many if not most offboard wired components (i.e. pots and switches). If I don't end up digging my artwork or control layout that...

It's an easy one to forget, especially if one uses OPA2132 and OPA2134 a lot, as I used to. Both of those are dualies...go figure!

There's one other significant difference that might bear mentioning: 5534 is a single opamp and 5532 is a dual.

Hey, we all like what we like. I've replaced stock front rack panels with engraved and infilled FPE parts on a few builds for that very reason. But you can also just ship them the original panel for machining, which I've actually done once or twice. And it's been a while since I talked to...

I've done a bunch of builds with placeholder front panels until I'm sure on control layout and various other build aspects. I just do laminate labels on my inkjet printer for starters, and sometimes that's as far as it goes. I think Amplifyfun can do proper rack panels via CNC, but at least...

I haven’t used them in several years. They didn’t offer UV printing back then, so the things I wanted got very expensive very quickly. Absolutely first class work though, every time I used them. If you want real real sticker shock try Protocase. ;)

Shouldn’t take much over ten years to get through the links I posted, unless you need to eat and sleep or do other pesky life stuff.

Start here: http://www.tubebooks.org/technical_books_online.htm The RCA compilations and the Radiotron ones are a classic starting place. The Crowhurst and Seely texts get a lot of recommendations as well.

Not just a rumor, they are shut down and have let all the production staff go. Many rumors that Fender are going to buy some of the crumbs though. I've only ever even seen two or three G&L basses outside of NAMM, and I worked in the music business for quite a few years.

They did teach it that way at RCA Tech Institute in 1972, and I'm sure also at many other schools for many many years..

Thanks for the heads up. Just downloaded what I guess might turn out to be the last v2 update, and planning to keep using that for however long it's feasible. I've gotten 3 good years for my initial $40 outlay, worst case.

Me either. Just the wrong tool for my jobs, but that could change at any time, I reckon. Only maybe 2% of my design/mod attempts ever even get physical builds, thankfully. Maybe once or twice a year I need to test something that’s not worth whipping up a PCB for, and to the perfboard it goes...

Thanks, my needs are 22uF/25V and 47uF/ 25V. Definitely not interested in mutilating SMD parts. I still have a decent stash of discontinued Rubycons for when I need 5mm height, but 7mm works fine for nearly everything I build these days.