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Do you know if other pedals do that? I guess I’m asking if that’s normal. I know switching between transistors is pretty normal, just can’t remember if a pop noise is normal or not.

As an experiment I used a 3pdt switch with a 2N2222A on one side and a BC108 on the other so I can switch between them. I get a popping sound as I switch between the two transistors when the pedal is engaged. Wondering if there is a suggestion for silencing it but if not, that’s ok.

That’s weird. I thought hFE was a big deal. I guess it just depends on the circuit. Like for a Fuzz Face it is more noticeable I guess. I had thought about putting a switch with 2 transistors on there, a high and a low, but don’t think I will. I suppose I could always socket it and experiment...

What ballpark should I aim for with the 2N2222A in the Dragon’s Breath. I have quite a range of options. Is lower or higher better (for that circuit)?

That did the trick! Thank you!

I didn’t even think about adjusting the other side with more washers or another nut. That will save time. I’ll go that route.

Yes. Trying to get this knob closer to the enclosure. Also, to avoid shavings, what if I install it into a spare enclosure while sanding?

Also, what do you all use to shorten the shaft on a potentiometer? Is there a way to sand it down or cut it?

What would happen if I changed the 100k pot to a 25k pot for the output volume control? (On the Muroidea)

Thank you for all the replies. Now I want to get a flux pen. Never tried it. I’ve not liked the braid but only ever tried the cheap stuff. I will say I recently gave Kester solder a try and it makes a world of difference. I thought the stuff I was using before was pretty good, but now Kester is...

I’ll look into it. Thank you.

I treated myself to purchasing one of these desoldering pumps on Amazon. Has anyone else tried these? I think it’s terrible. Wondering if I’m missing something. The tips aren’t pointed enough to get into small areas so it is hard to aim and not burn stuff. It also takes too long to melt the...

I’ve noticed that sometimes the solder pools on both sides of the PCB and sometimes it does not. Is it ok if the solder pools on the side you are working with but does not flow all the way through to pool around the pad on the other side? See attachment for example.

I haven’t purchased mine yet. When I do I’ll let you know if there are any import fees. I’m going to start collecting diodes soon but it may be a few weeks. I appreciate all the replies. It is very helpful in knowing how to approach purchasing on eBay.

I actually appreciate the advice very much. I had to research the pinout even before this reply because I don’t have a tool that tells me the pinout. I still had some trouble as some datasheets made it look reversed even for the same part number. I went directly to my order details from Tayda to...

I didn’t know that. I tested it and sure enough, no beep if passing through just those resistors. For some reason I thought since resistors limit the energy passing through I’d still get a beep (since it doesn’t fully block the energy). Thank you.

Ok, thanks. I have the through hole component. Wasn’t sure if there was a second one needed or something that was surface mount. I see now, it is an option of either/or.

Am I supposed to add a component here?

The issue is in the power section. I haven’t found it yet, and need to ask an ignorant question… wouldn’t it find its way to ground one of these two ways? (I’m still new at this and trying to understand why the continuity test from R18 to ground would fail.)

More pics