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They do but it's just a case of tweaking the divider resistors to negate it, but yeah, not as good/simple as an op-amp but they do the job if you just need a little extra oomph in your reference. There are also more complex versions that are better than just a standard common collector. In...

It does add extra stability (nice low output impedance) especially if you have a lot of VR sources that could interact or are going to pull a lot of current, it can be quieter although not always. In that schematic, does kinda seem overkill especially when half the op-amp is wasted... you can...

So your clock has latched up by the look of it and that's the area that needs focusing on, no clock, no modulation. You should see a square 0 to -14V square wave at pins 1 & 4 of the TDA. Given your fluctuating readings I'd suggest giving a solder re-flow first and foremost and checking your...

Why is IC2 pin 3 fluctuating? That should just be the input op-amp. The BBD clock inputs (pins 1 & 4) have a reasonable voltage on them... if you audio probe through the circuit, does signal reach the BBD input (pin 5) and is there anything at all on the outputs (pin 8 & 12)? On the plus side...

Need something to work with!

Yeah course, just jumper two of the SPDT pads so C6 & C8 are always connected and leave out the OD pot.

Do you mean for actual high gain pedals or for pedals when you're running your chain high gain? If it's specifically for higher gain effects I realistically see three options to avoid using one; 1) Higher supply voltage. 2) Rail-to-Rail op-amps. 3) Bootstrapping op-amp outputs. For things with...

It's just an astable multi-vibrator, full voltages are always the place to start. The first thing I see is the TDA1022 is only getting 11V, not the 14V indicated. Does the converter provide enough current?

Low passing squares (or even triangles) approximates sine but only over a very small range, the ol' OTA distortion trick is probably the simplest reliable method but that's still not exactly a simple mod. Soft diode clipping triangles can get you quite sine-ish, you'll need to boost the gain...

If you post full IC voltages of both units I should be able to help, I know vaguely what's going on in them.

BBD's don't just clip slightly more if they've gone bad. Are you sure the clipping is coming from the BBD and not the preamp? Have you checked the clock signal is producing a decent square wave? What about the voltages on the BBD besides bias?

Can we keep it!? :love: I promise I'll take real good care of it.

So I'm not going to find the love of my life through PedalPCB's inbox? Well what the hell have I been doing here all this time.

I would try adding an R/C power filter first and foremost, small series resistor, 100R or thereabouts and a large electro cap, 22uF (increasing in size with smaller resistors) to ground between your 9V input and all the pedals power supply pins. Then I'd start messing with the circuit itself.

http://www.geofex.com/circuits/biasnet.htm But you'll probably be fine with 1-10uF is the lazy answer. Electro is fine.

You need a largeish cap to ground from your 4.5V.Ref point.

I may be tempted...

They've been mangled with a dremel by the looks of it. Should be fairly easy to work out the chips from a quick trace of their pin outs.

Ibanez FL-99, Boss HF-2, MXR Micro Flanger. 'bout it for accessible projects. Also, why did Cool Audio never continue production of this or at least make it available to anyone other than MXR... I just don't get it.

Wondered what happened to this, hope life isn't giving you too much grief. I'd be surprised if it was 13kHz to 570kHz, 130kHz seems more likely. As it's just a standard triangle op-amp LFO driving an LED you can use any LFO and clock you like really... as long as the clock is fine running off...