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Only if you pick the wrong one... The ones shown in my schematic will not whine. Some run down as low as 5khz, which will whine. The LT1054 with pin one tied to pin 8 runs at no less than 15khz (25khz target) and the ICL7660S runs at 35khz.

The original purpose was to have a TPA3118 power amp to make a full fender amp in a 125B case, so the early revisions were powered with 24VDC 3A. The option to remove the TPA3118 and use 9V was an add-on later, which is an easy voltage doubler circuit. No high power needed. The power supply...

This is meant to be a clean circuit, so the target is roughly midway between supply voltage and source voltage. In the schematic as shown, this was all done with 12V target supply voltage. But, I made sure it didn't crash out at 9V supply voltage. Hard to keep it clean with hot pups at 9V. So...

This is my F1 trace...

This is the fender pre-amp final build but it has options. Components marked "LINK" are jumper wires. "XXX" means nothing installed. R7 and R8 are option jumpers to the power supply circuitry. This pre-amp likes to have 12V but will work fine from 9V to 18V. There is a gain pot but also have...

FYI, I've been working on an all-in-one fender clean amp that fits in a 125B. I haven't shared it yet but it is very close to finished and is being tested by a couple other folks. It has The following independent modules on one PCB: jfet fender style preamp and it is EQ matched to a real fender...

At the suggestion of anther member, I tried a mach1 overdrive, which really sounds good in front of the AMT clean and dirty channels. So... Here is a PCB that fits the same footprint as all the other overdrive PCBs for the combo pedal format...

Thanks!! You are correct about R15P and R17P. R18P however is left open. R18P servers to bypass the 2nd gain stage but the 2nd stage is used in the B2. If you still have no signal with R18P removed, then something else is wrong. Schematic is fixed at PCBway and BOM is fixed at the link on my...

Since this is a generic preamp, it can be used for bigger amps, too... This is the first amp that made me want a PCB. I started with hand-made modules you can see on the right side of the guts pic that all moved to the PCB.

More pics of this tiny amp build in progress since I had to make another one this past week...

I've made a few bass guitar amplifiers and decided to simplify the build with a preamp PCB that forms the front panel of an amp. It's shared at PCBWay here: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Bass_Guitar_Amplifier_Pre_amp_Board_1414fa9f.html The pictures attached show one example build...

This suggests something is wrong with your build. The path of the dry signal has a gain of 1 with the volume all the way up and the mix set to fully dry. So output should be same as the incoming signal... Unless you have done something wrong in the build. Double check all the resistor values...

Although I've moved on from tiny-pedal builds, I was able to put top jacks in 1590B. It's a squeeze, but possible. You have to use very narrow jacks. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN/RJ3VM?qs=0rbOLB9uh%252BCOWk8%2FAwcx4Q%3D%3D

Use what ever you want.

As I said at the time, that can be used if you add all the diodes of the original schematic. Order the board from pedal PCB and use that, not my board. Or hand-wire in the diodes on the switch. We're going around in circles.

Those won't work. They are not binary encoders, they are pulse encoders. I'll say it again... 8-position, real code, binary encoder.

I can't tell from just a picture.

That looks like 16-position, not 8, and it is also translating the position to a voltage, so is not suitable. 8-position, real-code rotary encoder is needed. You could use this switch if you remove the PCB and attach direct to the pins, but it will still have 16 positions instead of 8.

yes

There is a 4th pin, the common pin. Look at the datasheet.