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For anyone experience similar issues, I subbed C12 for 10n and C13 for 220n. I think it's gnarlier than the original but found the right blends of spitty, acted fuzz and nice beefy distortion to be pretty inspiring. I found that the dynamics were great too, light picking creates a percussive...

Thanks for the info, that's interesting (although I'm not sure I follow it completely!). Do you know why the regular values don't seem to work? I was under the impression that the 'weight' switch controlled the amount of crackle, not sag. Just trying to understand the circuit

Thanks for the suggestion. I tested that the caps were connecting to the switch, all the switch pins connected as they should and all earths were connected. I ended up socketing the two caps and I have it 'working' but it makes no sense. The strongest crackle fuzz is with C12 removed, and a 220n...

I realized that I thought the switch was working the opposite way. The C12 + is connected to the top pin of the SPDT, the C13+ is connected to the bottom pin. When the switch is DOWN, it connects to the C12 and that is actually the setting that sounds really good with the C12 removed! Adding the...

Yes, that is how I understand it to work but what can be causing the presence of C12 to affect the tone from C13? No C12 and the heavy C13 setting sounds glorious, add C12 and it sounds lame. The light setting has no sag effect with or without C12. This is what is baffling me

I keep looking at this section and I don't understand how C12 affects C13 when C13 is selected. Could the switch be bad even though the continuity checks out? No solder bridges under switch, R18 and D3 are connected to SW2. Stumped!

Having a perplexing time with the Weight switch on my Fornicus. Set to the 'Heavy' position (I believe engaging the 10u cap C13), the crackle is quite underwhelming and the 'Light' setting (1u cap C12) has no crackle at all - despite the LED pulsing to the input. I pulled C12 to test it...

Awesome, thanks for verifying!

The Subdecay Variac does run 9 - 18v but does the Brownout Overdive version also allow that? TIA!

Ok, I think I fixed it. After following the schem there seemed to be a continuity issue between the 1044 and the 565. I ended up putting a jumper between pin 5 on the 1044 and the 390R resistor connected to pin 1 on the 565 which finally measured a negative voltage. Being an ugly ring mod it is...

Anyone have access to the schematic or thoughts on the lack of -9V? I tried another 1044 but voltages are the same...

UPDATE - the new LM565 arrived and unfortunately it did not fix the issue, still no effect. I think it is maybe a power issue as the 1044 has +9V on pin 1 and -9V on pin 5, meanwhile the 565 has +9V on pin 10 and also +8.30V on pin 1, same with the empty socket. Where has the -9V supply gone...

Did the reflow and whisker check. Guess I will get another chip from pedalpcb and hope it is the solution. Thanks for the suggestions!

Checked all the values and replaced a resistor that was measuring weird. The audio probe did not get a thing from any pins on the 565 (including 4, 6 & 7) except a very weak dry signal on pin 3. Strong signals elsewhere, especially around the opamps, but all uneffected. Does it seem likely I...

Anybody have an opinion on these voltages? I'm confused as to what the charge pump is doing, assuming it is delivering -9V wouldnt that show up on the 565? I followed the values on the silkscreen as seen on this image posted elsewhere:

1044: 9.17 5.22 0.00 -3.84 -9.00 4.21 5.67 9.17 565: 8.31 0.38 0.36 8.47 8.47 9.04 9.04 8.94 8.36 9.11 0.20 (varies) 0.20 (varies) 0.00 0.00

I believe so, the board is marked with the LED end and has A and K pads, the vactrol has corresponding long/short LED legs. I also tested the pads with a regular LED and they reacted to the signal from the guitar

Not getting any effect from my Cordyceps, passes the clean signal only. The build doc and schematic has not been posted so I'm not sure what the trimmer does, but it doesn't create any effect. I switched out the optocouple several times and reflowed all the joints. Any obvious culprits...

Figured it out, I changed the CD4069UBM as suggested in an old post and it worked! Kind of challenging to desolder an smd chip but YouTube to the rescue :)