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I mean, the whole thread is about Plexi-sounding pedals lol

The patent is for thermal stability - nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. (It's also just using a thermocouple/heater to keep the temperature stable, which anybody can figure out themselves very easily). Iirc the GE version is just the normal preamp with a temperature stabilised GE BJT...

If the originals were just bypass switching, you just need 3PDTs if you want an indicator

Any idea if the schematic is missing because of some taboo I don't know about? It has been 4 years since the docs were updated. I'm designing my own PCBs, so I'd be eliminating a stack of stuff I don't need (I've already got onboard bipolar power, don't need channel switching, etc)

Just found some PCB shots - 3 TO92's + opamp. I'm guessing it follows the similar JFET/mu-amp/op-amp topology that stacks of other pedals follow, along with a LDR for sag

Symmetry is overrated...but sometimes you gotta do the aesthetic thing. Honestly, it's pretty hard to make a terrible PCB if you just follow all the basics - avoid long parallel runs, try and keep big ground currents away from a ground plane, lay things out sensibly so you don't have heaps of...

This is one I have heard many, many good things about but can't find a schematic anywhere

I'll have a listen - not a huge Muff fan but I might be pleasantly surprised!

Howdy, Now I've had time to work through a couple of outstanding projects, I've finally got a chance to look at one of the white whale projects I've been poking at on and off for about two years - a two channel preamp. It's not anything too fancy or outrageous, I've just never really had ideas...

If you are using uninsulated jacks, you just need to take the powdercoat off one - doesn't matter which one. Check all other grounds have continuity to the enclosure after it's assembled. Easy. It's very unlikely to be your issue though

Mouse mat. Fun fact - I've got a legit Corsair one at work, and a AliExpress special at home. Guess which one has lasted the longest?

I bought it directly from Merlin

Honestly, bit of a pain in the ass to build with a very compressed board layout. Most of the drilling was just done by eyeballing everything and I think I got PRETTY close. Using a pair of EAA91 with starved heaters as the clipping diodes, with a switch to disconnect one side of the clippers -...

Probably the best finish I've gotten on a pedal so far. Drill guide didn't QUITE line up, but close enough I could make it work. Top plate is anodised aluminium I laser engraved, everything else was pretty standard with a hand picked MP20 (84hfe, 90ua of leakage). Is it worth the hype? Not...

R just means resistance - makes it clear that 100 is 100, and not 100k.

Howdy, I've just had my third order turn up from SOVCOM on eBay - first two orders were perfect (and 10/10 transistors I ordered were right in the middle of the gain ranges with minimal leakage), but this order got lost somewhere in the Ukrainian post system (which is understandable given...

I attempted to make a Woolly Mammoth 4-5x when I was much younger (15 or so years ago) and never got it to work. Last year I made a PCB for one and it worked perfectly the first time.

Sooo... I was poking around with my multimeter to check other voltage points while it was on and suddenly it started working. I've wiggles and moved every single component I was near and can't make it stop working. Maybe some sort of tiny short I couldn't see? No idea. With that being said, it...

Weirdly enough I have the exact same issues as this guy, just with wildly different voltages around the transistor - which leads me to believe there's definitely some fuckery around there. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/isosceles-boost-issues-tiny-no-signal-when-engaged.5944/ He also notes...