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There's barely an offboard connection there that doesn't look like it's got a short, and with that much damage to the PCB I would be shocked if you hadn't got multiple trace issues

NE5532 will easily drive most reverb tanks, and plenty of schematics out there for full send/return circuits with all controls included.

Create your two separate ground planes as nets (ie. I use GND and GNDD just to make life easy). Place a symbol called "Net Tie" on your schematic, and connect the ground to it on opposite sides. Attach a footprint to it - use any of the generic ones (just redesign it to suit once in PCB...

Going off datasheets, you can get away with 2mm if you skip the washer (which matches up to what I've done before with ply faceplates). 1mm doesn't leave a lot of room for a CNC engrave + paint fill, unless I'm using some sort of carrier to keep everything flat (and facing on the CNC again).

I've had an idea for finishing a Duocast enclosure off and I think the easiest way is going to be CNCing an aluminium plate (and filling the etching in with black paint). Has anybody done this, and if so what thickness/etc of aluminium did you use?

2mm aluminium is already very easy to drill - why would you need thinner than that?

Well...no. There's quite a bit of difference between them, and you absolutely can't sub a 5532 for a 5534 without extensively redesigning the circuit - one is a single and one is a dual

Potentially. Post a schematic

My previous job was working on power supplies capable of putting out 52v....with a short current of over 100kA. You had to use fully insulated tools everywhere; not for the risk of electrocution, but because a short would likely turn whatever you were holding directly into plasma and the...

If it is also positive ground, you can't unless you have a fully isolated power supply.

Jack polarity is independent of circuit polarity - you can wire up anything however you want to. Your circuit looks to be positive ground, and requires a center positive supply. If you want to use a battery still, you'll require a 3 terminal jack. Just match the pinout to what you have now.

Advice: don't. You have no business being near lethal voltages. It's clear you don't have a basic grasp of electronics, let alone the safety basics that prevent you, or anybody else who uses the amp down the track, from dying. Tube preamps have the same lethal voltages that power amps do, and...

I believe it's to prevent Q2 going hard off on the negative swing, but I could be totally wrong. It's definitely doing something

I've been making these for a while, and it's such an incredible circuit that I definitely want others to try it out. Has anybody seen something similar to this staging? I've done a bit of searching for similar distortion pedals and haven't come across anything at all. Of all places, it...

No practical difference. Use whatever is on hand. I've got stacks of 1M so use them everywhere. One lets you get away with a single quad op-amp, one requires three duals (as you drop the vref buffer). No real practical difference - layouts are often easier with multiple op-amps though. Polarity...

I've had 4 issues with pedals I've sold over the last few years: one guy mentioned after sending it back he'd "accidentally" plugged in a 48v AC power supply. one guy was adamant the wah I sent him was "noisy" despite me testing it at 4 different venues under a range of gear. After a lot of...

If you use an electro, follow that. If you use film, ignore it as it's irrelevant. Easy

If it was to JUST buffer - absolutely. That's also what that MOSFET is doing right at the start. I can guarantee there's a lot happening to the frequency response/harmonics from combining out of phase signals that go beyond just buffering though.

Probably imperceptible unless you were scoping for it.

Which version is this for? I'm just looking at a v3 and it's miles out from all the dimensions I can grab from the build docs.