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Use what ever you want.

As I said at the time, that can be used if you add all the diodes of the original schematic. Order the board from pedal PCB and use that, not my board. Or hand-wire in the diodes on the switch. We're going around in circles.

Those won't work. They are not binary encoders, they are pulse encoders. I'll say it again... 8-position, real code, binary encoder.

I can't tell from just a picture.

That looks like 16-position, not 8, and it is also translating the position to a voltage, so is not suitable. 8-position, real-code rotary encoder is needed. You could use this switch if you remove the PCB and attach direct to the pins, but it will still have 16 positions instead of 8.

yes

There is a 4th pin, the common pin. Look at the datasheet.

If you add all the diodes in the schematic you showed, you can do it, but that is a mess. A rotary encoder does it directly with simple wiring.

No. There isn't a direct mapping to such a switch. Use a rotary encoder.

Here's a view of the bottom of the PCB where the eeprom and jumpers are. All the pads on the right side are VCC. Any one of those goes to the common on the rotary encoder. The pads on the left are the individual signals. S0, S1 and S2 go to the other three pins on the rotary encoder.

I should add, you cannot use an "8PDT" rotary. It must be a "Real code rotary encoder" which will have 4 pins: Common, 0, 1, 2. Common goes to Vcc, which is all on one side of the jumper header and then S0, S1, S2 to the 0, 1, 2 pins on the encoder. This switch at mouser is an example of such a...

Those are for jumpers to choose what gets connected, side to side. All the signals (T0, S0, S1, S2) are pulled down to ground with a resistor on the board. Adding a jumper to each will connect them to Vcc. Here's the relevant part of the schematic. You can use a "real-code" rotary encoder with...

The 2 circuits are redundant. And Absolute max voltage on the regulators is 10V.

Of course not. Minimum is 12V 1A for low power. 19V 3A for driving 4 ohm to full power. 24V 2A for driving 8 ohm.

Yes (Sorry I didn't see this before).

I used Kicad to enter the schematic and layout the PCB and sent it off to PCBWay. It's shared there... https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Keyed_Noise_Gate_for_Modular_Guitar_Pedal_Board_Using_4305Q16_U_Dynamics_Process_0be9e9ac.html

Its very similar to bias of a triode tube... The resistor between source and ground sets the bias current and is (nearly) independent of supply voltage. And, it can be bypassed with a cap to increase gain at higher frequencies depending on the value of the cap. The drain resistor will determine...

If there is no buzz or hum, then it's OK but really should have one solid connection to earth ground for safety since your guitar strings are connected to the negative of the power supplies. If either of those supplies goes bad and allows mains onto the output, would really rather have a fuse...

O Oh shoot. Yes. I thought I updated the gerber file in the shared project but forgot. I just updated it at PCBWay. But, unfortunately, you got the old one. Here's where those go on the new PCB. The easiest bodge is to first solder R22 and C14 in series, add some heat shrink to that so it's...

I have no idea. I was looking at Vgs-off for various jfets at mouser and bought about 10 different types. The goal was to land between 1k and 2k for source resistor, about 4k to 15k drain resistor and have about 4V drop on the drain resistor. J113 biased well so made it into my prototype.