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Sorry this one can get marked as solved, mods. The TL;DR of it for any future inquirers: Losing signal over time when bypassed was a bad joint in the foot switch that I reflowed and that fixed it. The crazy warble/tremolo type issue was 100% solved by turning the internal trimpot only about...

Ok so the gradual signal drop out in bypass has been solved. I reflowed all my foot switch joints and yes there was an iffy one that wasn't fully filled in (I'm using the PPCB breakout boards). Left it plugged in and turned off for over an hour and that problem has gone away. I have a new...

Thanks for the response, I'll start looking at them. So these symptoms could be from a bad joint even though I get sound on or off but in the off position it happens after a few minutes? When the pedal is on it doesn't happen at all Sorry for the naive question, I'm generally a terrible...

I built a Magnetron and was testing it a bit. It works 100% fine at all times when turned on, the issue is when it's off. After a few minutes of being off the signal fades out until it's gone completely. Turning the pedal on instantly fixes the problem for a few minutes and then it happens...

Are these gonna be available in the near future as PPCB projects?

All good , man, it happens. I'm just glad it's possible to do, I'm not electronically literate enough to know if putting a non-polarized cap where a polarized one is called for is ok to do. Thanks for the advice!

Not sure if this has been pointed out or if this is even the correct section for this, but has anyone else noticed C17 is an electrolytic 1u, but the parts list shows it as a box 1u. Really frustrated as this is the first time I've ever ordered parts in the exact quantity I need them instead of...

I found the thread from back in September about these no longer being made. It's been a few months and I was wondering if anyone had any info on if these really are permanently done

I was having an issue with my Friedman IR-J where the kliche mini was causing signal loss and dulling the high end quite a bit so I decided to follow this picture to make it true bypass. Is it normal to now not have a functional volume control? It goes from off to on and 90% of the sweep has...

I know you don't wanna buy on a PCB by PCB basis, but unless your intention is to start breadboarding immediately and making your own designs I would stick to ordering what's required for the pcbs you have or are intending to buy. If you're at the "making my own designs out of parts that I...

Thank you for that! My intention was to leave D1 the same at all times, in this case a blue diode. I already have sockets soldered to the board so I dont need to remove any diodes. I've been experimenting with different convos of LEDs and diodes and you're right. For example a BAT46 in D2...

I wanna try adding a diode selector switch to D2 of an Appetizer PCB using a SPDT because that's all I have extras of right now. Pretend I know NOTHING (it's not much of a stretch lol). How would I wire this and then connect it to D2? Thanks!

Glad it was a simple one! I'm dozens of builds in and recently did the same thing with some LEDs. I also recently installed a toggle switch on the component side of the board and when I soldered the last pad in my entire house heard "you gotta be f***in kiddin me!" :ROFLMAO:

Possibly the socketed resistors? Could be seeing things incorrectly here, but does the red LED next to Q have the cathode facing the transistor? Because it should be the anode facing the transistor and from the pic it looks like the side facing Q is flat. I'm no expert, but those are 2...

Thank you! I'll give it a shot

Just noticed the Doxie calls for a 4v7 zener in D7, which I forgot to order. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I could sub something close enough without running the sound or function of the stock pedal. I have available: 1N5234B 6.2v 1N4001 1N5817 1N5227B 3.6v 1N5239B 9.1v 1N5223...

Sorry it took me so long to get around to this. There is NO whining noise when pairing the Sheriff and Kraken.

Yeah I have a few of those cables as well, but you definitely should NOT plug 18v into the Kliche family of pedals or the Victory V1 family of pedals because they all utilize a charge pump

Good question, I'll try over the next few days and report back. Not sure if you meant me or the OP, but yes my 2 power supplies are isolated. A Voodoolab Pedal Power 2 Plus and a Friedman Power Grid

I've built all the Victory V1 pedals except the Jack. I can confirm that this happens when using the Kliche Mini with the Kraken and the Sheriff, but doesn't happen with The Dutchess or the Copper.