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I've tried the Big Cheese (mode 4), the EHX Ripped Speaker and the Danelectro Nichols 1966. They all make a proper vintage nasty-ass fuzz tone, but none of them nail the SitS tone. I'll be posting TWotB articles for all of them.

Just to be clear, this is a completely different circuit from the FreakZQ and Yamaha.

Is there an economy of scale with bulk orders? I'm mainly interested in bare thru-hole boards.

Where are you setting the BASS & DRIVE knobs? The SAT knob interacts with both of them.

Yes it does. In a nutshell, don't use Ge diodes in circuits that can't tolerate the leakage. Make "synthetic Ge diodes" with two Schottky diodes and a resistor. Bear in mind that some Schottkys are pretty leaky. Not as bad a Ge, but you should still test them so you know what you have.

I pointed out the futility of it in post #1. I think a lot of people build pedals with Ge diodes in the feedback loop and either like the tone or they don't. They have no idea if leaky Ge diodes are killing the gain.

Where does is that 680nF cap go in the circuit? How much louder is it when you engage the pedal compared to bypass?

Increasing Q1's gain does two things. 1. It increases the signal level at Q1-C (the output) and Q2-E (the feedback path). 2. It extends the low end of the Wah range.

If you have a breadboard, you can build just enough of the 1st stage to check the bias.

Beautiful, just beautiful.

I would expect ungapped ferrite inductors to have a fairly wide tolerance since the permeability of the ferrite material has 20% or more tolerance and drifts with temperature. Pot cores, cup cores, E-I cores, etc. can be gapped without degrading reliability. Gapping ferrite toroids is...

If we put Ge diodes in a feedback loop, as they are in the Muffin Factory shown above, leakage will be an issue. One way around it is to put an Si diode in series with each Ge diode. I'm not saying it's a good solution, only that it will stop leakage from killing the gain. In the...

This YouTube video shows a red Fasel that is of ferrite pot core construction. Toroids have advantages, but the small ones are difficult to wind.

As an engineer who worked with marketing people, I can tell you that we take a dim view of their activities.

3.4V might be close enough. Are you breadboarding or building a PCB? We can tweak R18 to dial-in the drain voltage.

Niiiiiiiice!

For better or worse, it's pretty much everything goes in this thread. :cool:

One of us will need to run an LTSpice simulation and breadboard it.

Try running an LTSpice analysis. Reducing R6 lowers the collector voltage on Q2 and the emitter voltage on Q3. This reduces the headroom. Maybe the designer is intentionally causing Q2 to clip. Let's do a quick DC bias calc. Assume Q2-B is at 0.7V and Q2's base current is much smaller than...

It's like one and a half phase 90s, I guess. The two additional phase shift stages definitely increases the intensity of the phasing effect. If you're used to the tone of the Phase 90 or UniVibe, then the AP-2 might seem like a bit much.