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Gimme that SV-Pre ASAP

So when you say you removed the board, did you remove the LED as well? As in, did you eliminate the enclosure altogether from the equation? If the LED is staying lit, it means the ground connection is there. If you did remove everything entirely from the enclosure - and I mean everything...

Also, your solder selection is very important. What are you using?

When you say 400°, do you mean Fahrenheit, or Celsius? I hope Celsius, but given the heat transfer issues, it’s either F, or a very dirty tip. In order to transfer to both the lead and the pad, you’ll need a lot of heat (I’m at 340° C - 644° F), a clean tip (make sure you’re wiping it on either...

Now you listen, ain’t no giving up here. We’ve all been there, so let’s get this thing working and get your confidence back up. You got this. More pictures would be helpful. Looking at those solder joints, they seem a bit cold, so it could be as simple as a cold/broken joint somewhere that...

Try a different power supply.

I don’t feel like searching it down, but there was a thread somewhere on the interwebs about this. The original Bensons had trim pots for Q2 and 3, but just a 2k resistor biasing Q1. There is an unknown reason for this, but that’s why the build documentation says that. In the unit tested, Q1...

The best method is paying someone else to do it. In the hassle of learning a free program, figuring out which material to use, how to print it, how to protect it, how to get it right…take that time well spent and just learn Affinity Designer. By the time you pay for the materials to print and...

Hey Mike, waking this back up. How exactly does one go about contacting Hugo? I’ve previously submitted a couple help tickets through my account to no avail, so I gave up, but I have another project I’d really like to try this on.

I'm pretty certain the text should all be facing to the right, just like it is for the other ones. I will confirm once I'm home from work and report back, hopefully as solved.

Actually, I think I see it. C12 (bottom right corner), which is part of the buffered bypass (if I'm reading the schematic correctly) appears to be the wrong way around.

Ok party people. Put together a total of three Informants all at the same time. One worked perfectly first fire up. The second, the LED would stay dimly lit in bypass. The third, buffered bypass is not working. Very fun. The LED issue on the second one, I worked out, but the third one is still...

Just one quick follow up, as I'm learning all of this on the fly and y'all are so very helpful. So the four outputs are all the 333mA max draw on current. So, I'm guessing that juicing it with the OneSpot is fine so long as I'm running low draw things like fuzzes, drives, etc., correct? Is it...

Makes sense. I will mark this as solved, and a great success in not damaging anything!

@giovanni & @jwin615 thank you both. I guess in theory, my thinking was “these are isolated outputs, should work just fine” but in actual practice, not so much. I had a feeling, and I knew going into it that it likely wouldn’t work, but figured I’d come to the actual smart people and see if I...

Ok, so I built one of the 4 Tap DC Isolators with the intention of using it as an off-board power supply for my “amp” setup, which is a UAFX Dream and Ox Stomp off-board. When I built the 4 Tap, I made sure to get the highest mA output I could find at Mouser, which was 330 mA, for each output...

There you are, good sir.

De-Soldering skills are good enough, lol. Yes, the jacks are easy 1:1. I plan to desolder at the board for the wiring and then go to a new switch that is softer click (SBP pro series). Where my confusion is lying is in the negative power side of things, plus what is going on with pads 2-3 on...

Hey there, fine folks. One of my buddies has asked me to rehouse his OCD 1.2, which I am happy to do, but I need some help with the wiring. I think. because the original power jack is hot glued into the enclosure, I’m not going to be able to get it out, so I’m going to need to replace it. We...