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Done, and the pedal is working again. Thanks for the help!!!

Yep. The connection between the socket and transistor or socket and board in Q2 and Q3 seem to be causing the issue. I tried thickening up the leads with some solder on those two transistors, but that didn't work. Guessing the socket is the issue? Great call thank you.

I built an Uberfuzz late last year, and it's worked great up until about a month ago. The pedal began working intermittently, now I get no effect. Bypass sounds great, and the LED lights up. I can't find a ground issue anywhere, and I replaced the 3PDT foot switch just in case there was an issue...

@Nostradoomus @Stickman393 adjusting the bias trimmer worked. You should have seen the ear-to-ear grin on my son's face when the pedal came alive. You guys rock. Thanks so much for all you help!!

Jumpers in place. I soldered them just like you mentioned, and unfortunately, still no effect.

Sweet. Guess we missed that in the instructions. It'll be tricky since the IC socket is in the way on the other side, but I'll get it done somehow. Thank you so much for all of your help. Very much appreciated!!!!

You bet. Maybe I didn't add the jumper properly?

@Nostradoomus It's bi-polar. Here's a link to the capacitor. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/ECE-A1HN2R2UB/2689161?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIwAYC0BTAxipBDJcAWAdmAE5gCuARmgC5IEAmIAugL5A

Could it be that both transistor pin layouts are not CBE? This is 2N5088. I can't tell if the diagram has the flat side facing toward or away. There's no diagram on the data sheet for the 2N5087 transistor, but it does say (EBC) on the sheet.

@Nostradoomus Here you go! No changes to the transistors. Q1 (2N5087) C: 0.1mv B: 8.52v E: 8.49v Q2 (2N5088) C: 9.35v B: 7.93v E: 7.46v Q3 (2N5088) C: 9.47v B: 9.47v E: 8.82v

Ok, here's what I have: IC1 (RC4558P - OpAmp) 1: 4.72v 2: 4.73v 3: 4.55v 4: 0.1mv 5: 4.67v 6: 4.69v 7: 4.65v 8: 9.36v IC2 (MN3007 BBD) 1: 8.33v 2: 4.40v 3: 8.69v 4: 8.20v 5: 8.20v 6: 4.39v 7: 8.16v 8: 8.16v IC3 (LM358N - OpAmp) 1: 1.829v - 1.840v (oscillated) 2: 4.31v 3: 4.26v 4: 0.1mv 5...

I did my best to reflow whatever looked like it needed it while I had the board pulled out of the enclosure. Yes, I have a multimeter.

Thank you all for chiming in. I much appreciate it! @Nostradoomus This morning I went through and cleaned the board, and touched the joints that you mentioned. I also adjusted the bias trimmer a half turn. No change in the pedal. I still get a clean tone in bypass and when the pedal is turned...

The pedal power's on, and has a clean tone, but there's no effect when adjusting the pots. I went back in and reflowed most of the joints as well as passed the iron between joints to remove any possible shorts. The wiring looks correct based on the diagram. Any thoughts as to what might be the...

Here are some pics of the board and wiring. This was my 15 year old's second pedal. I added the sliding switch and capacitor at C18 this afternoon.

Thanks for all the feedback. Saw the note in the build docs, but I finished it up and it's not working properly. Pedal turns on and I get sound, but no effect. Thought omitting the switch might have been the issue, but guess not. I tried reflowing all joints and checking for shorts, but still...

I ordered this switch based on the part number listed on AionFX's PDF. Come to find out, it's a SPDT switch instead of a DPDT (also listed on their PDF). Which is correct (see pic). Also, I only need the MN3007 version of the pedal so the switches function isn't necessary. Can I just bypass it...

Thanks for the reply. I did exactly that and the pedal works great.

Yes, it's a standard 3PDT switch. Thanks for the reply.

Last night, I mistakenly soldered this footswitch breakout board upside down. I assume that it'll still work as long as the remaining connections are soldered correctly. Correct or am I screwed?