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Th Thanks, sorry though I meant the LED lights up but the sound from the pedal is barely audible.

Just built this pedal (Cornish P1 clone). It bypasses fine (and I have it set to the have the buffer on so I assume that is working ok). But when I turn it on I get almost no sound. LED lights up but barely audible. It’s a poor build (think my brain is also on holiday…) but before I rewire...

Cool, thanks @vigilante398. I’ll have to have a look then (what a slippery slope this is 😅). Can you get much overdrive out of it? And do I need to build the XLR part of the circuit if I’m just using as a regular preamp? Sorry if that’s a novice question. Also FYI just looking at the...

I’m kind of new to the whole D.I. thing….could this be another straight preamp option for guitar (like the bassdude)? And if so, getting in the ballpark of an old bandmaster sound?

Thanks, sorry I should’ve picked that up in your mod thread…

Roger that, thanks Vigilante (and thanks also for the great products and forum support generally 🎸). Cheers

I was doing some analysis of the Bassdude/bassman schematic for an upcoming build. This article (https://www.ampbooks.com/mobile/classic-circuits/fender-bassman-5F6-A/) says that the 820ohm V1 cathode resistor is shared across two triodes, which means that if you’re building a one channel amp...

Actually I found it. Across the lugs themselves. https://www.earthquakerdevices.com/blog-posts/killswitch-engagement#:~:text=If%20you%20get%20a%20pronounced,will%20seldom%20go%20away%20completely). Thanks

Yeh that’s I meant, thanks. Just to confirm, I’ll attach each resistor to the leg of the caps you mentioned? (or I guess even the switch lugs at those points?) Sorry I thought that was the right term after some trial and error googling. Thanks for your help.

That’s great advice, thanks! Do you have advice on whether I need pulldown resistors and how I should wire them? I did see that thread, thanks. The other interesting difference between this bassman circuit snd the 5F6A and the 60s Marshalls was the V2 cathode. Seems this circuit has 22u and...

I’m going to build the Bassdude and thinking of some mods that are plexi inspired (but slightly less aggressive) and some which provide a middle ground. Plan is to install switches on: - C5 (coupling cap): ~22n, ~10n, 4.7n - C6 (bright cap): 100pf, ~250pf, ~390pf - C8 (cathode bypass cap)...

Thanks, will give that a go.

Just built the diplomat. Sounds awesome but the rotary tone switch doesn’t seem to have much effect. Pos1 to 3 seem to let progressively more bass in, but from positions 4-8 it seems to not have much change at all. They’re seemingly closer to pos1 with very mild differences that seem to have no...

Changed the jack as suggested and rewired and this one is solved 🤙🏻

Ah I think I get you now. As it’s a metal jack, it’s transmitting the signal to the enclosure and shorting. I need one of the plastic ones. So by buying the more expensive jack thinking it was better quality I’ve just bought a useless one (for this application..). Live and learn! Thanks for...

Thanks, I’ll swap the wires and see what happens. With your second comment, do you mean it contacts the metal pedal enclosure? (By design not a placement or wiring error)? Thanks so much for your help.

I have no idea! I’ll try to work that out. This is the product data sheet

Hi everyone, I just finished the C2CE Diplomat and it’s not working. Any help would be appreciated. 1. Turned on: bypass signal only (LED doesn’t switch on; it’s like it’s not on). 2. Turned off: nothing (no signal passed through). I could be getting those round the wrong way. As the LED...