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There's really no like for like replacement out there. BUT, a small 120vac to 12vac transformer will work. 5va is way more than enough to power the B+ circuit and should fit. In truth, you're likely to be safe with anything over 0.5VA. Assuming 1ma draw per triode x2. The trick is to wire it...

I'm referring to the single and dual gang junction boxes they often use: they're like, 16-12 gauge steel sheet. Still sheet metal, still not a ton of material for the threads to bite onto. Not the folks that use coarse-threaded self tappers. That's hack shit.

I've been doing mine via solder tabs on the PT mounting screws. They can come loose, but a properly torqued connection with a locknut and lock washer would require an act of God to loosen up. For good measure, stick a tamper-proof drive machine screw in there so dumb dumbs don't try anything...

Huh. I kinda *do* hate myself. Hmmmm

Got a 5E3 that's getting close to being ready to be wired up. Waiting on a single resistor. I'm basing it off the RobRob 5e3 with a couple extra mods. Then, JCM800 20 watt 6v6 build and a 1x12 cabinet. Plan is to make those cabinets from scratch. That one's gonna get a hammond 270EX pt...

About 5 bucks a pop 🫪. Stupid, yeah. I wanted to do something kinda stupid. There aren't that many resistors in this thing anywho. Carbon film, low noise, 3/4 watt. They look great! I'm never gonna do another full build with em though. Too pricey. Whelp folks, I think this one's wrapped...

Just wanted to provide an update RE: swapping the rectumfrier. Yeah, better. The 5Y3 dropped my B+ too much. With the 250vac secondary I had a *ton* of sag when I dimed my volume control. New B+ nodes: 313vdc 274vdc 237vdc Plate: 295vdc Screen: 272vdc Cathode resistor: 17vdc All within...

Pretty soon I'mma gonna be winding my own transformers and rolling my own caps. Once I learn how to create and destroy energy, then I will be done. For then I will have am become death, destroyer of worlds. I rely on NO ONE!!!!!

Nameplate, work in progress. Gonna do it up on bronze anodized aluminum with my laser engraver, try to match the original old-skool fender plate. Kinda like this:

Can confirm. Weight reduction equals good playing fast me.

Interesting side effect of the CF back panel: It's very conductive, and makes for a great shield. Seriously, I was poking around yesterday and noticed a whole lot more interference with the plate off. Cool.

Yeah, that definitely crossed my mind. Granted, though: only the 5Y3 was plugged in at the time. Was a fun little process, honestly. If nerve-wracking. End result here: B+1: 270VDC B+2: 238VDC (6V6 screen) B+3: 207VDC (preamp) 14.5vdc across the cathode resistor, or about 30.9mA 257vdc on...

Its alive, people. Still gotta poke around and confirm voltages. Got a feeling I'll be swapping the 5Y3 with a 5AR4: only because I've got a power transformer with a relatively low secondary. Its pin compatible with the 5Y3, but should result in roughly 40-50 extra volts on the B+ rails...

Geometry and the magnetic properties of the material the core is wrapped around is important as well. I have no idea what those cylinders look like on the inside. Should probably cut one open one of these days. But you *can* make a good inductor for a wah pedal with relatively small form...

Might be a good topic to start off my wah blag on my website. Photos & descriptions of the different inductors used over time and general timeframes. Truthfully, those little cylinders were the end result of a long process of dunlop cutting costs on production. Lighter gauge wiring, quick...

Yup. That's the lottery loser right there. That's the one they transitioned to immediately after they ran out of Stack Of Dimes inductors. Probably because they were cheap and, at least nominally, looked like the right component for the job. If you only looked at inductance at 1Khz. But the...

OK, y'all. Wiring is doneski. Eeeeeeek! Working on a lightbulb limiter and just bought a variac for startup. Nervous about my wire dress. Eeeeeeeek!

What depresses me more than I can say: I say that line all the time to my young, 20-something apprentices. None of them know what I'm talking about. Y'all, I'm unc as fuck.

Shit, how do they work?

I had seen that as well. The only extra little mod I've added is a pair of protection diodes on the tube rectifier. These are there just to "pre-rectify" the B+ in case of tube failure in the future. A traditional standby wouldn't really help with inrush even with solid state rectification...