Search results

Iceo IS the leakage people typically refer to. Not sure how accurate the TC1 is, but Iceo is what you are measuring when you measure leakage via (for example) the RG Keen method. Leakage is very tempersture sensitive and will increase if you handle the transistors, so make sure they've settled...

"From my experimentation with MKII Tone Benders, Q1 doesn't need high gain and high leakage." It's less about what Q1 needs and more that the combination of Q2/3 here will not bias correctly. There are tons of ways to bias these, but OP's will bias poorly without that change or large resistance...

Insanely late reply on this, but if you still have some version of this breadboarded @Rimgrot, I'm pretty sure that OC75 is meant to be your Q1. Swap it with Q1 and this should bias pretty well. As-is, it's gonna be difficult to get enough current flowing into the collector of Q3 without some...

A breadboard half the size of that one would probably be plenty for any simple-ish fuzz circuit. Nothing wrong with going larger though. Better than having one smaller than you need. I use 3M breadboards these days which are very expensive compared to most but they are fantastic. They might grip...

I've never seen a genuine NKT275 without a dot on them.

Just one man's opinion, but... The era when Tung-Sol, GE, RCA, etc. were making tubes was the peak of vacuum tube manufacture. That's where we are now for semiconductors. Buying some ancient op-amp today is like being in 1958 and taking your nice RCA tubes out of your 5E3 Deluxe and trying to...

I haven't used those specific ones but fwiw I generally like adding more series resistance to the prewired LEDs I've used. But bright LEDs on pedals drive me nuts.

PCBs that have offboard pots/switches but no screw mounting holes baffle me. I don't think the designers had a plan for how you should mount this either. But for ones that do have mounting holes, you can get adhesive standoffs here...

The Colorsound One Knob Fuzz, DAM Meathead, and a lot of others use the Fuzz Face topology just with different values/transistors. IMO, for good reason - you get the most control out of that circuit as a one-knobber. Guitar volume control works as a fairly effective fuzz amount control - a lot...

Lol, I think I forgot where I was, I didn't realize the OP was talking about a PedalPCB board/schem. Makes total sense if you're cloning something and that's what was in it. I'd do the same.

The best way to compare diodes is probably to have some sort of volume compensation after them to normalize levels. The volume drop when switching from silicon to germanium or LED to silicon/germanium is drastic enough that it's hard to objectively compare otherwise IMO. Comparing Schottky...

The Ball Park Frank resistors are Dale resistors. I think the ones pictured are from the CMF55 series. You see CMF60 (larger/higher wattage) somewhat often as well. I see no issue with using a 475R in place of a 470R but it's hilarious that it's the one resistor with the value printed on it...

Big Monk: Were yours marked 2N169 from Smallbear? The Smallbear listing just says NPN flat-hat. I have a handful of transistors I purchased from that listing maybe 18 months ago and they are all unmarked. I think it was just a mix of unknown types in that package - could be 2N167, 2N170, etc...

The Gorva and LMS switch are the same. I think LMS is getting them custom stamped via Gorva rather than purchasing the same switch from the same factory. You can see a mention of LMS carrying the Gorvas in the comments of this IG post: https://www.instagram.com/p/CGGfiGInA48/ Their early...

Amplified Parts has them as well as the little cotton bags that some pedal manufacturers use (e.g. EQD): https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/pedal-parts-diy?filters=2952a3380c2951a2952

Awhile back I had quite a few builds where the shaft diameter (6.35mm shaft) needed to be fairly exact. The Alphas were far superior to the cheaper ones in that regard. I tried Cusack, Mammoth, Tayda, and ModularAddict pots, and they all had quite a bit more variation (50%+ of the shafts were...

Thanks vigilante, I have some on-hand and yes they are 150mil rather than the 300mils SBE carries. There is a 150mil version in the Princeton Technology datasheet but it's p/n PT2399-SN. Smallbear's are about 10x more expensive. The cheap price of Tayda's is what drew me in. If I decide to buy...

Anyone have experience with SMD ICs from Tayda? I'm curious about their SOIC-16 PT2399s in particular. They're out of stock at the moment, but I have a few on-hand. It's easy enough to socket the DIP stuff but it's more painful to test an SOIC package.