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That is how my build behaves. The transition is gradual and seamless when going from 18V to 9V, but stammers the other way around.

As others have described, the condition of hearing an 'unaffected' signal in parallel with the dirty signal is inherent in the design. Especially when compared to the Rat, which is a similar design to the vintage Hotcake, as the Rat uses diodes in a hard-clip which distort at lower signal...

That does not sound right and your drive pot may have a short between Lug #1 & Lug #3. So that we are 100% clear, viewing the drive pot from the component side, the lugs are in this order: #3 - #2 - #1. The measurements you see should be: - Between lugs #1 & #3 = 250K (no matter where the...

Sounds like the level (volume) is functioning correctly. In the mode where the effect is engaged, you should get no signal whatsoever when it is off. At this point if you are getting signal, there is something off at the stomp switch. For the drive fully counterclockwise (off), you should be...

The 'level' control should go entirely to ground (test using a DMM continuity tester), therefore allowing nothing to go to the amp. If signal is getting to the amp with this control off, this could be an incomplete ground, quite possibly from lug #1 of the pot being broken from the internal...

Good catch! With as many ODRs I've built, I never caught this. The original ODR-1 did not have an input cap, because it used FET flip-flop switching + buffers for the bypass (as in, not true by-pass). So it didn't need it. Accordingly, and depending on how that first FET is biased...

Try a 2.2M resistor on the input jack simply between the hot and ground lug. Aside from that, I find that occasionally I get a batch of 3DPT stomp switches that are internally glitchy transitions, which causes pops.

That is correct.

Yes, when using a single type of clipping diode in a 2 to 1 configuration, you get the same speed, curve (the 'knee' you mentioned) and a symmetry difference of double the Vf. If fed an OD circuit with a 1kHz sine wave as the input and you varied the signal strength (gain) in the millivolt...

I've experimented a lot with clipping diodes and my ears like subtitle asymmetrical clipping, which is more 'amp like'. Drastic asymmetry (say a 1N4148 paired with a BAT41) has a broken sound that interferes with sustain (a unique and usable sound to some players). I also prefer symmetry with...

For the power solution, the easiest mod is to purchase a 24VAC / 0.5A (more than enough to cover the 100ma requirement) wall-wart. Like you said, have that into a DC 2.1mm jack (polarity does not matter, since it is coming in alternating current). Wire that to where the old transformer's...

I've had two Aion PCBs with defective solder traces, on their MT10 clones. I suggest you use a DMM set on resistance and beep and check for continuity between the DIP switch points (testing the switch itself) and then point to point through the path of the diodes. Replace the switch if you...

One option would be to redrill the holes then use a laser printer vinyl sticker the size of the entire pedal face as a graphic to cover the mis-drilled holes. Just seal in the ink with a thin coat of matte clear spray paint.

Using a scope, is the hum present in the +9 (Vcc ) or the -9v?

And the compression. I can recall distortion mode of my Sholtz Sustainer had healthy levels of compression (not the clipping kind).

I appreciate the offer! And that was what i thought, although I didn't expect auditioning 100's. That is brutal!

Is there a way to purchase said values or you have to buy a bunch, test and weed out until you find the correct Vgs?

I noticed the Proposition uses a FET for compression, which the build docs suggest requiring a select FET and the parts list has Q1 as a J201 and the schematic suggest a 2N4339 (which has a different pinout from the J201). Which is correct and what is the FET being selected for?

Looks discontinued.

Does PedalPCB have a build something like the MXR Rockman X100 pedal? My 'sound ' from 1987 to 1992 was a Rockman Sustainer Preamp into a Marshall Jubilee 2553 (small box 50w). Both have long been out of my fold. It was a pretty dated sound, but every once in a while I am nostalgic to jam on...