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Yes. If the effect is working, that means it is getting 9V feed from the DC jack, but your LED indicator is not. A quick test would be adding a jumper from the DC jack to the anode pad or LED anode leg.

Just to be clear, the anode pad is square and the cathode is a standard soldering pad. Check voltage at the anode pad with the black probe to a ground source other than the cathode pad (should be +9VDC). If this checks, then check the resistance between the cathode pad and the same common...

Great job! Reminds me that I prefer electrical problems which are obvious (like a burnt resistor, etc.) versus those which are 'partially faulty' science projects.

Your issue is definitely at pin 2, most likely a mechanical short if the effect works out of the box and not mounted. Given the readings of pin 2, it is likely a very weak short, since the readings are indicative of some of the current and voltage still wanting to flow through your meter...

Looking at the datasheets, I'd second what @pbrommer suggested in using a 2N3906 to substitute for the 2N4062.

Transistors eventually 'spit and crackle' when they are starved for voltage. Their duration for actual 'sag' is a lot shorter than vacuum tubes.

100%. D2 and D3 convert AC signal to DC saw-tooth pulses, actuating Q5 like a toggle switch, which sends the 9VDC power closer to a short, reducing the voltage for all the audio signal transistors. C12 & C13 filters that and makes the sag duration longer. It is almost like a decay speed...

If you used a SPST on-on switch, C12 and C13 do not interact. They are swapped. The 1uF allows less signal to ground than the 10uF. That circuit appears to be a complex sag effect on Q2's power supply, so the 1uF will sag less than the 10uF. Tone wise, it should get spitty with loud notes.

What is the value of the mix pot?

You are getting the correct voltage from the 12V voltage regulator (L78L12), as I would expect 15V is a typo. You should be getting around 17.4VDC at the juncture of D5 (1N5817) and R29 (47R), although 16.8VDC isn't unusual considering device tolerances and the current load on the 18V circuit...

Might be a shielding / component proximity issue. Changing pickup selections and then using the volume pot changes the inductance of the input circuit, which can make the whole mess an antenna. Does it change when you move away from the breadboard?

That is an important one! My build I used paper tape, because my usual standby of foam tape would not fit. The soldering leads punched though the paper tape, and I went to two layers of black electrical tape instead and that worked. My first test had funky sound because of the shorts on the...

Fire it up and let out the magic smoke! (just kdding)

Are you running this pedal with its own supply or with other pedals?

Glad you got it doing its thing! It is one of my favorite compressor pedals and is on my 'jam night' board. Unlike those compressors which are more for a pronounced effect (Dynacomp for country and jazz, etc), this one makes a clean guitar sound natural, but bigger, without being louder.

I wanted to follow up to let everyone know that PedalPCB replaced my defective Custom EEPROM and it works great! I really appreciate their help! Here are all the effects I chose: Program 0: REV004 - Blackface Reverb Program 1: REV006 - Spatialist (Room Reverb) Program 2: REV007 -...

Like @PJS said, it isn't going to work without the clock (37.768KHZ crystal). The solder of the '+' looks wonky. in the future, socket all transistors & DIP ICs. I also tend to socket clipping diodes as well, to allow for auditioning variants. D100 looks oriented correct to the one I have...

An easy way to turn your Arachnid multi-effects pedal from an 8 program effects, to 17 effects, on the fly! The stock pedal design gets its stored program instructions from IC2 24LC32A, but the FV-1 (IC3) also has 7 internal effects that are useful and musically nice. The internal effects can...

Glad to hear you have it doing its thing! Cool graphic!