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Oh ok, does it matter if you are going from inverting to non inverting? Is there a way that is considered... IDK best? I'm currently working on a circuit I guess I could just remove the coupling and roll with it without that resistor... coming out of a baxandall into a non inverting with a...

Yea I guess that makes sense that ground is basically vref there. So if there was an op amp stage directly before without the cap between to block dc then that wouldnt be necessary?

On non inverting amplifiers you’ll often see a resistor going to ground or vref right before. As we see here in the greengage. I’m assuming this has to do with the impedance of the source for sizing? What determines if it goes to vref or gnd, and is it always necessary? Thanks!

How long did you leave it unplugged for? Caps gotta discharge lol. Well i would probably revert to the audio probe again and see if tou can see where you lose that wet signal. I like to check at actives. So q3 emitter, ic3 pin 3, pin 7, q5 emitter

Strange, if you unplug it and plug it back in does the choris effect come back and then do the same fade out? That would make me suspect a cap.

is the rate led working in the box? Check your voltages on q5, and check is both sides of c16 have continuity with ground. All three of these things would be effected if that pot is grounding out. And all three are in the chorus portion of the circuit.

Well id be sus of your pot backing. As the only real difference should be the that its not getting pressure on that pot being tightened down to the board.

Sorry you had chorus out of the box and none in?

Did you adjust the trim pot

Remember to mark it solved if youve got chorus

Most likely somehow id guess the pad of r102 got damaged. During soldering. Did you desolder that pad for any reason? Less likely manufacturing defect in just your board. If it wasnt a verified pcb design built by a ton of people, improperly done layout. Thats obviously not the...

yea it should be the same. Do you have continuity between r102 and the collector or q2 or q4, or the positive side of c104. Or the cathode of the 9v1 diode. Almost seems like theres a bad trace. R102 should have continuity with all those points and should have the same voltage. Short...

i think if it was me at this point I would remove c104 and see what your voltage reads. Maybe being a 10v cap it went boom, though boss notoriously used 10v caps in many pedals.

Huh im a little confused how both sides of 102 are 9.04 and the plus side of of 104 is .22. Is your solder joint good there? What are you getting at the collectors of the 5088’s. And yes its very wrong

Something is whacky in your power section. What is your voltage at pin 8 of the 4558? Assuming thats right around 9v id check both sides of r102c, orientation of c104, d101 etc

You got something funky in the power section it looks to me. I’d look at orientation of the 9v1, whats your voltage on the positive side of the 220u? Check your voltage divider resistor values etc

The rate LED not working is the biggest clue. You’re lfo is not working. The TL022 is your LFO. I would focus on that. I’d start by verifying vref_b. And the voltages on the tl022. 0 at 4, around 9 on 8, around 4.5 on pins 2/5, 3/6/1/7 i believe should fluctuate. But i believe...

Just for your knowledge c6 is what is called a coupling cap. Its purpose is to block the dc voltage coming from vcc through r11 and the bias pot down the circuit to q4. It will allow ac (guitar signal) to pass.

C6 isnt going to have anything to do with having signal at the drain there. 1.28v is pretty low though. You have signal at leg 2 of the fuzz pot? If so i would look at these parts. Move the bias pot around and see if you’ve got voltage changes at the drain.

Shit my bad inforgot this isnt a trim on this! Oops. Well the bias pot is going to effect that voltage at the drain.