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Found thread in test kitchen…

Anyone have a link to a decent article on the effect of power supply filter size. Ive always just kind of assumed in general you would want as small as possible for the job at hand. But ive never really seen the understood why some use 220 vs 100. I guess id think bigger is always going ti...

Building another magnetron, I set the gain trim at noon on my last one. Thinking why waste the trim. Just to save myself save time to get unity i’d make r3 100k and jumper legs 1&3 of the gain trim, correct? https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Magnetron-PedalPCB.pdf

Interesting. I just built a glory hole and am having switch pop issues as well. Never had this with any thing else before. I’ll try the resistor.

Ill use greenies sometimes when its less than 100n. Thats sort of my cut off. At one point I ordered a bunch of not commonly used sized greenies from tayda just to have in hand. Since they are so cheap. If I’m building something with the intent of it going to some else I would stick...

Not really about the pedal. But clipping out the bright cap in a blues jr is a a great very easy mod. Literally just clip the legs off and call it good.

Yea as is in the OP the values in the board are from 1.1. The pot values changed in 1.2 and never went back.

Yea sorry in my head I just fixed that he made pin 5 pin 8 :)

Ooohh. You didn’t socket your bbds. This makes the pedal gods angry. In all seriousness though always socket ic’s especially the pricier bbd’s. First thing I would probably do is just go through and reflow all your solder joints. They don’t look “bad” but it’s one of the easiest...

Yes those look right. Typically you’d want your com probe on ground looks like you got it reversed.

hmph. I built a greengage and well I didn’t fall in love with it. Buddy of mine is now in possession of it. Now my other bass playing buddy has a bday coming up soon would this be an acceptable gift ?

You may have angered the pedal gods by not socketing your bbds, the pedal may be cursed now.

Now that you mention it I think they are all backwards. Hard to see the ones on the right very well.

That’s how the rate led works it’s always on whether the pedal is bypassed or not. Are you passing signal but not getting a chorus effect? Reflowing joints isn’t a bad idea. But this pedal has a small window on the trimmer where you get chorus effect. Try slowly turning the trimmer...

Yes it always flashes. If you don’t want it to attach the cathode to the same spot you attached the sw pad to the foot switch.

sounds like bio might be the guy to be the most help with this. I will say this typically when your voltages are incorrect on an ic or transistor m. It’s not that the chip is bad it’s the circuit surrounding the chip. It’s usually helps to narrow down where the problem lies. More so...

You’re 4558 voltages look whack.

Have you turned the trimmer very slowly It’s a small window that it does the effect. If you have a person or looper to hit a string it’s easier. If you’ve confidently done that. We can look at other things. Shoot sorry I should read. So the lfo led remains steady on you say.

Your 1.3 is going to be quite a bit different than the board values. If I remember right it will have the A1m gain pot but also use a 10k for the tone pot. Also there’s a bit cap value change if I remember right. There’s a bigger difference between 1.1 and 1.3 than 1.3 and 1.7 if I...

There are two germanium diodes in the 2.0 ge version and 1 in the 1.4. All other versions do not have them. If you are trying to recreate the 1.1 I believe the parts listed minus the germs should get you there.