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I think thats an mlcc not a tant.

I’m looking at adding a feedback loop to the parentheses mini board, basically just looping the output back to the input. My understanding is this one inverts the phase of the signal. Will i need to invert the output before going back to the input then? And to do this would I just use...

I would disconnect the pot and see if the pads still show continuity with ground myself.

Though you did say you have signal in bypass?

Yea the reading on 8 having continuity with the sleeve is a problem. Ita easy to get a solder bridge under the daughter boards. Like if 8 or 2 brdiged to 5, it no workie.

save yourself the headache and order the board. When i first started I did vero builds, i realized why when there is a board available hell if its not I just lay one out in diptrace and order it now. Vero is too time consuming to save a few bucks. Support the guy who traced the schematic...

One thing i have done is with the switch on just test continuity between lug 2 of the volume pot and the tip of the output jack. Easier to verify that ussually.

1. 4. 7 2. 5. 8 3. 6. 9 Thats your switch. 1 connects to the pcb input 2 to tip of output jack 3 is connected to 9 4 is connected to sw pad on board (led) 5 is connected to ground 6 is connected to 1 7 is connected to pcb out 8 is connected to output jack 9 is connected to 3...

The lumberg style cheapos are the ones ive had an issue with.

I mainly use them because of the cheap tayda jacks are awful, i sold a pedal to guy and the damn cheap tayda jack i used broke. I had to pay return shipping and fix it. Swore to never use the cheap super tight feeling tayda jacks again. I’ve found the outties from stompbox parts have...

Yea I bought one from ebay, no go, got one from mouser worked great. I pretty much wont buy any thing from amazon, ebay I look for US shippers with stellar feedback. Or the ukrainian guy for germs

I use them, and I let all the threads show.

Anyone tried the gl5528 instead of the 5516 in the moonshot. I swear i had some but either i used em all or they found the parts blackhole. Difference is 10-20k light resistance vs 5-10k. Edit: sorry, compared it to the 5516, I’m trying it… just can only compare it to a demo when I’m done

So i just cut the extra flap off the paper drill template basically. Add a hole in the middle for order switching

Oh ok, does it matter if you are going from inverting to non inverting? Is there a way that is considered... IDK best? I'm currently working on a circuit I guess I could just remove the coupling and roll with it without that resistor... coming out of a baxandall into a non inverting with a...

Yea I guess that makes sense that ground is basically vref there. So if there was an op amp stage directly before without the cap between to block dc then that wouldnt be necessary?

On non inverting amplifiers you’ll often see a resistor going to ground or vref right before. As we see here in the greengage. I’m assuming this has to do with the impedance of the source for sizing? What determines if it goes to vref or gnd, and is it always necessary? Thanks!

How long did you leave it unplugged for? Caps gotta discharge lol. Well i would probably revert to the audio probe again and see if tou can see where you lose that wet signal. I like to check at actives. So q3 emitter, ic3 pin 3, pin 7, q5 emitter

Strange, if you unplug it and plug it back in does the choris effect come back and then do the same fade out? That would make me suspect a cap.

is the rate led working in the box? Check your voltages on q5, and check is both sides of c16 have continuity with ground. All three of these things would be effected if that pot is grounding out. And all three are in the chorus portion of the circuit.