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Done. Works perfectly. Thx!

Excellent. Will do. Thx

I'm building a second Sandspur fuzz and wondering if I changed the B1k fuzz pot to an A1k or even C1k would the keep the heavy fuzz from bunching right there at the highest setting? I know that most fuzz pedals are used in the cranked position but just want some input? Thx

I have not. I don't have a tester for germaniums. I know that GEOFEX (I think that was the page ???) had a technique for using a MM but haven't looked at it yet. I can always drop them in and see what happens. Thanks for the info

Got one NKT275. Need suggestions on 2nd position transistor. Want to put it in a Sunflower. I also have an AC188 and a CV7003 / OC44. Any suggestions on looking for other germaniums? Tough to find any these days but... Also, any suggestions on a different build for this than the Sunflower?

I don’t have any experience with germanium transistors. I understand that the hfe/gain needs to be staged upward from Q1 - Q3 but I have a couple of questions. I’ve got a cheap T7 tester but that will not give me those values. Should I get a Peak DCA55? Due to so many of these transistors...

TY!!!

I’m using One Shot, used by sign painters and pinstripers. Pretty damn expensive but worth it. Started with Testors model paint which actually works just fine. Thx for the feedback!

Just thought I'd post some of my pedal artwork: Top row left to right: Jump Drive Aion Mk1 (Yellow Submarine Bandleader) Whipped Cream (inspired by psych Clapton SG) Conqueror Fuzz Bottom Row: Pendulum Tremolo Pharmacist Distortr Shout out to Dan Keclik. I saw his 5 instructional videos...

I revisited this again just recently and got both pedals working right. In both cases I scrubbed the crap out of both boards and their switches with Isopropyl alcohol, which I normally did anyway. But these were early builds and there was still enough flux on both to probably leave enough flux...

The A10k volume pot solved the issue for me

Put the C500K in place of gain knob and an A100k for the volume pot, That's the trick. Rocks pure old school. Thanks guys

Excellent! TY

So just following up again, should I give that C500k a shot since I don't have a C1M on hand? I hate to put that much heat on those pads if it doesn't work and I have to go with the C1M. But I just don't need to put in a parts order right now. I'd basically be paying shipping for that pot and a...

Yeah that's a good call. I think it was one of the Tonebenders that call a B10k, maybe... I put a C1k in and it worked like a champ. I'm out of C1meg so I will add it to my next order. But any thoughts on a C500k as a replacement?

Pic 2 I do. Will swap out in the morning. Thx

So true, but good grief this shouldn't be that hard. I recently picked up and audio probe. No clue how to use it but will look on youtube. Jimilee, I'm attaching a couple of pics of 1N270 diode readings. The clear glass diode is from a batch I used to build my last DOD 250. Sounded great as...

Replaced the filter cap with Proper orientation (fgs, what's wrong with me) and hit that solder point on the volume pot. Same situation though. When I get home this evening I'll look at voltages. Kind of a novice at this so I'm open to any other thoughts.

I've built a number of pedals at this point and I'm a bit surprised to have an issue with such a simple pedal. I did box it and it works both clean and engaged but the engaged volume is weak, pretty much unity with the unengaged volume. The distortion acts like an old Tonebender: nada till you...

Replaced the 50k trimmer, the socket and the used my first ever mmbfj201. Bought these from Robert and thought it was the right time to try this out. With all this done I was able to dial in 4.5v and still... no boost. I also tested it inside and outside the box (with jumpers) to make sure I was...