AionFX Refractor, sound but no clipping

Ctrl4Smilerz

Well-known member
Okay, so I just got my Aion double pedal boxed up. Refractor (Klon) and Achilles (P.O.T.) with an order switcher. Achilles side works and sound great, but only works if the order switcher is on it's side, if not I still get bypass sound. The Refractor gets sound in both bypass and engaged. It produces a high pitch squeak if I turn the gain past 12 o'clock , and gets a heavy hiss if the tone is turned past 12 o'clock. I used shielded wire for all the signal carrying cables.

Here is the gut shot (Refractor on the right):
PXL_20230121_175035087.jpg

Here is a video of the squeak:


And here is the wiring diagram I used to wire the switcher:
1A13D902-F099-45ED-AA5C-2C7494B4A8CF.jpeg

I reflowed all the pots, the send/return cables, and reseated the ICs and diodes. Any help in debugging is appreciated. TIA
 
I made some progress... I redid the wiring to bypass the order switcher, and the got the refractor side working. There is still some wonkiness. When I plug the power in both LEDs work fine, but once I connect the cables, only the Achilles side lights up, but both side still work... At this point I'm not sure the two in one pedal is worth it, and I may house them in separate enclosures. What do y'all think, is it worth to keep trying to get the 2 in 1 working?
 
So I got individual cases for these pedals and have been working to get the Refractor boxed up. When I did, I noticed I have no sound in bypass or engaged. After doing some digging I found that there is continuity between the input wire and the ground on the buffer/3PDT board. I removed the ground wire and input wire from the breakout board, but the pads still have continuity. Is the breakout board toast, or is there a way to fix this?

PXL_20230201_225203645.jpg
 
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Boxed up the Achilles tonight. Works perfectly and sounds great. This is my first "transparent" drive and I can see a lot of possibilities. I'll write up a more detailed build report in a few days, after I have some more time with it. For the refractor, I'm going to order a new breakout board, and hope that fixes it.🤞
 
the pads still have continuity. Is the breakout board toast, or is there a way to fix this?

Looks like there is something between J Out and Ground pads, it's probably a short. I would clean it, going quickly with the iron, to avoid overheating the switchboard.

Having continuity between In and Ground is to be expected when the effect is switched off. Try to press the 3PDT, and see if there is still continuity.
 
Looks like there is something between J Out and Ground pads, it's probably a short. I would clean it, going quickly with the iron, to avoid overheating the switchboard.

Having continuity between In and Ground is to be expected when the effect is switched off. Try to press the 3PDT, and see if there is still continuity.
Unfortunately, it looks like the board was damaged and that is copper from underneath showing. I'm willing to accept the board is toast. A new board is only $3, plus I'll have to order another switch, but the resistors I have on hand.
 
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