Got some "old TV parts" from Russia, looking for suggestions.

If I could get a PCB which would allow me to use the same architecture while modifying the component values that would be my ideal.

I'm still learning most things right now, so I have to ask: what is the purpose of the voltage regulator there?
So you run it along side & daisy chain it to standard pedals.
The Buzzaround & Dizzy tone are -9v circuits because of PNP Transistors.
 
So you run it along side & daisy chain it to standard pedals
The Buzzaround & Dizzy tone are -9v circuits.
Sounds like a good thing to know before I go letting all of the magic smoke out, thanks!

Another good reason to go with a PCB. At least then I know that someone involved in the build knew what they were doing! :ROFLMAO:
 
Just confirmed with thewintersoldier if your MP38A's are NPN, you can bypass the voltage converter & reverse your Electrolytics & such on the Gnat PCB.
 
Just confirmed with thewintersoldier if your MP38A's are NPN, you can bypass the voltage converter & reverse your Electrolytics & such on the Gnat PCB.
I was just looking at the Gnat and saw that the transistors needed there are PNP (mine are NPN), so my *guess* is that I would have to do that, right?
 
Here it is, the Dizzy Elk for NPN GE transistors, Members can participate if I missed something, B100K can be subbed for Volume :

View attachment 12161

I ordered a few boards to play with and they should be here next week. I am planning on making one of them where everything is socketed so I can play with different values and I had a question.

Taking a look at the schematic and your suggestions, everything makes sense to me except as to why C101 would be left in. It looks to me as if it can be omitted, but I wanted to double check here since I am very new to reading schematics.
 
I ordered a few boards to play with and they should be here next week. I am planning on making one of them where everything is socketed so I can play with different values and I had a question.

Taking a look at the schematic and your suggestions, everything makes sense to me except as to why C101 would be left in. It looks to me as if it can be omitted, but I wanted to double check here since I am very new to reading schematics.
Going to want to leave it in, only cap to filter the power supply.

C102 was removed and that cap parallels c101, not shown in original Buzzaround schematic but could be used either way. Somebody smerter than me could explain the benefit but guessing it would be minimal.

Ag
 
Going to want to leave it in, only cap to filter the power supply.

C102 was removed and that cap parallels c101, not shown in original Buzzaround schematic but could be used either way. Somebody smerter than me could explain the benefit but guessing it would be minimal.

Ag
Thank you. I can sort of follow the logic when things are contained in a single schematic, but when it has multiple in the same schematic (not sure what the correct language is here, but I'm guessing you know what I mean) I really lose track.

I figured asking rather than just assuming either way was best, and now after your explanation and looking at it again it makes much more sense - thank you!
 
This thread has sent me down a rabbit hole, got a couple of gnat boards coming and ordered some more mp38a’s........😁

Digging around found a couple threads on freestompboxes on the Buzzaround, then some pics of an original, then some pics of some Pigdog versions. Those make me all gooey eyed, love the hand wired stuff. You cost me money, and will cost me more before its over.🤣

Ag
 

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This thread has sent me down a rabbit hole, got a couple of gnat boards coming and ordered some more mp38a’s........😁

Digging around found a couple threads on freestompboxes on the Buzzaround, then some pics of an original, then some pics of some Pigdog versions. Those make me all gooey eyed, love the hand wired stuff. You cost me money, and will cost me more before its over.🤣

Ag
Anything I can do to help! :ROFLMAO:

I'm still contemplating whether or not I want to try to find one of those massive wedge enclosures to put it in. Might have to wait and see how mean it sounds when I'm done.
 
I ordered a few boards to play with and they should be here next week. I am planning on making one of them where everything is socketed so I can play with different values and I had a question.

Taking a look at the schematic and your suggestions, everything makes sense to me except as to why C101 would be left in. It looks to me as if it can be omitted, but I wanted to double check here since I am very new to reading schematics.
The Original uses 25uF, I have left 100uf because it is extral Power Filtering & it is more commonly used as Filtering.
You could use lower values but you could also introduce noise!
 
Something else that sounds great with MP38As is the Skreddy Screwdriver, to bring up another circuit if you have a lone transistor left at the end.
 
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