How would you improve this L5 preamp labeling?

[Surgo]

With great difficulty, I used inkscape to put together some labeling "artwork" for the new Aion L5 preamp. Thanks Pachyderm for the template hardware. I'm not totally jazzed about the channel markings though. Because there's a new LED underneath the compressor switch (which didn't render out of inkscape for whatever reason), there's no real room to put the labels on the bottom of knobs if I want to keep all the labels on the same line. So, the labels moved to the top of the knobs and the channel markings moved to the bottom. I'm...really not sure it works. I think I'll try a variant where everything but the right-most column of knobs have their labels moved to the bottom of the knobs, and the channel markers go back to the top, like on the old preamp. Still though, this can probably be improved much further. Any ideas?

 

[Surgo]

Hmm, I think that's a definite improvement. The right column is consistent, but it's also not part of a channel so that's okay.

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

Second is definitely a huge improvement.

 

[cwsquared]

Hmm, I think that's a definite improvement. The right column is consistent, but it's also not part of a channel so that's okay.View attachment 58432

I agree with @Bricksnbeatles, #2 is much better. The only thing I, personally, would change is moving the Master, Limit, and Comp labels under to match everything else. Keeps the whole interface uniform.

 

[Surgo]

I agree with @Bricksnbeatles, #2 is much better. The only thing I, personally, would change is moving the Master, Limit, and Comp labels under to match everything else. Keeps the whole interface uniform.

That's the problem :-/ There's an LED right underneath comp (not rendered in the png), so there's no room for text under there. So that whole column has to get put above, or the COMP label has to have some other creative solution.

 

[cwsquared]

That's the problem :-/ There's an LED right underneath comp (not rendered in the png), so there's no room for text under there. So that whole column has to get put above, or the COMP label has to have some other creative solution.

That's right, I read that and totally mentally disregarded it seconds later.

I wonder if you could offboard that LED to the left of the switch, so like where R65 and R79 are? That messes up the drill template a bit and would require some finesse to install, but I am scheming for when I attempt this build.

 

[music6000]

Hmm, I think that's a definite improvement. The right column is consistent, but it's also not part of a channel so that's okay.View attachment 58432

 

[Feral Feline]

CMP

C◉MP


Make the "O" in "COMP" where the LED goes.








The "COMP" lettering won't be perfectly centred, but it's the route I would take — OR...

Offboard wire the LED and stick it somewhere else (provided you haven't already drilled the enclosure).

 

[crashguitar]

Maybe try this: move the Bright, Multifilter, Bright, and Comp above the switches. Then move the off-on, and 1-2 to the left and right of the switches. So channel 1 has Bright above the switch and then off-on is to the right centered with the switch. The Multifilter is above and the 1-2 is to the left centered with the switch. Channel Two Bright has the off-on to the right centered with the switch and the Comp has the off-on to the left.
Perhaps worth trying?

 

[Nic]

I think on my L4, I planned the labels on the master side over the controls. And under on the channels side. But I did not add the on/off labels for the switches...

 

[Feral Feline]

Maybe try this: move the Bright, Multifilter, Bright, and Comp above the switches. Then move the off-on, and 1-2 to the left and right of the switches. So channel 1 has Bright above the switch and then off-on is to the right centered with the switch. The Multifilter is above and the 1-2 is to the left centered with the switch. Channel Two Bright has the off-on to the right centered with the switch and the Comp has the off-on to the left.
Perhaps worth trying?

Peut-etre...Comme ça:





I also used knob variations to differentiate sections.

 

[Nic]

Peut-etre...Comme ça:


View attachment 58453


I also used knob variations to differentiate sections.

Exactement ! Ou presque...

I've planned my L4 with black knobs on the channels and cream for master

 

[Nic]

Peut-etre...Comme ça:


View attachment 58453


I also used knob variations to differentiate sections.

I must I really like that layout.

 

[Surgo]

Adding a "Master" section, and different knobs, is a great idea!

I think I will do what others have said here and move the compressor LED off-board, to the left of the compressor switch (luckily I haven't done any drilling yet). While I think Feral Feline's variation looks particularly good, I do worry with the OFF/ON so close to the edges of the plate that I'll run into tolerance issues thanks to variations in plate size. Though I could try rotating the OFF/ON ones 90 degrees, so the text sits vertically.

 

[Surgo]

Hopefully this is useful for someone: here's the script I used to lay out all the holes in inkscape for a drill template. Use the "Simple Python Scripting" extension. The build guide had everything with the origin (0, 0) placed at the center, and inkscape forces it at the upper-left and I could not find a way to create a new coordinate system in inkscape (I'm much more used to CAD programs). This script does the coordinate system transformation to bring it into one of the standard Tayda templates. Uploaded as a .txt file instead of a .py file since the forum won't accept .py; it's just plaintext regardless.

 

[Nic]

Hopefully this is useful for someone: here's the script I used to lay out all the holes in inkscape for a drill template. Use the "Simple Python Scripting" extension. The build guide had everything with the origin (0, 0) placed at the center, and inkscape forces it at the upper-left and I could not find a way to create a new coordinate system in inkscape (I'm much more used to CAD programs). This script does the coordinate system transformation to bring it into one of the standard Tayda templates. Uploaded as a .txt file instead of a .py file since the forum won't accept .py; it's just plaintext regardless.

Very nice! I just translated all those coordinates by hand because I also could not find how to put the origin in the center.