VanWhy
Well-known member
- Build Rating
Being a Muff man, I felt like I needed to build this one. Especially after seeing @Robert's and @finebyfine's praises.
Even on the basic setting it's a full sounding, thick fuzz/distortion machine. The doping toggle cranks the mids up and sounds great. And turn on the 1979 toggle and gives it some more compression and at least for my build, gets a little spitty. You can hear in the demo, once I first turn on the 1979 toggle the signal gets killed but then sort of fades in. Sounds great after that. The URA switch, I'm not really sure what it does. When toggled up it seems to remove all the low end. To me sounds much better with the URA toggle down. Unless down is the ON? If that's the case, it was active most of time in the demo. All I know is I like the down position of it.
Build NOTE: only potential issue is the DC jack. I could only fit one of those 'outie' type jacks. The regular lumberg or those 'innie' jacks won't fit. The footswitch is right next to the bottom of the PCB so you can't really move the board down to make room. Just beware. The other ones may fit with some finagling.
A cool tool I've been using is the Hammond Toneworks Brightboard https://www.hammondtoneworks.com/pcb-brightboard I'm sure there are other methods for adjusting the CLR of a specific LED but for me this one is super handy. I went with a 10k resistor, and the clear white is still pretty bright. But at least I adjusted it a bit beforehand.
It's a very fun Muff. Sounds great and very very useable. Highly recommended.
I really want to do more demos I just don't have the right tools to do it at the moment. This one is just done on my phone. Plus I'm not good demonstrating the pedal properly. I just jam on it. It's also way too long. But I think it can get the point across
Even on the basic setting it's a full sounding, thick fuzz/distortion machine. The doping toggle cranks the mids up and sounds great. And turn on the 1979 toggle and gives it some more compression and at least for my build, gets a little spitty. You can hear in the demo, once I first turn on the 1979 toggle the signal gets killed but then sort of fades in. Sounds great after that. The URA switch, I'm not really sure what it does. When toggled up it seems to remove all the low end. To me sounds much better with the URA toggle down. Unless down is the ON? If that's the case, it was active most of time in the demo. All I know is I like the down position of it.
Build NOTE: only potential issue is the DC jack. I could only fit one of those 'outie' type jacks. The regular lumberg or those 'innie' jacks won't fit. The footswitch is right next to the bottom of the PCB so you can't really move the board down to make room. Just beware. The other ones may fit with some finagling.
A cool tool I've been using is the Hammond Toneworks Brightboard https://www.hammondtoneworks.com/pcb-brightboard I'm sure there are other methods for adjusting the CLR of a specific LED but for me this one is super handy. I went with a 10k resistor, and the clear white is still pretty bright. But at least I adjusted it a bit beforehand.
It's a very fun Muff. Sounds great and very very useable. Highly recommended.
I really want to do more demos I just don't have the right tools to do it at the moment. This one is just done on my phone. Plus I'm not good demonstrating the pedal properly. I just jam on it. It's also way too long. But I think it can get the point across
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