Light plates

[SillyOctpuss]

Does anyone have tips for making led light plates? I have some lexan and I'm not really sure the vest way to go about it. When I've tried to make faceplates before I've made a complete hash out of it and it's just looked like a wavy mess due to the complete lack of straight lines on any of the sides.

So anyone who's pretty consistent how do you cut some lexan to match the bottom of your enclosure?

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

Make a template in Inkscape from a tracing, and print to 100% scale. Glue it to the acrylic, on the outer film. Cut it out close to the line using a dremel, bandsaw, or coping saw, them drill the holes very slowly using a brad point bit. Sand up to the lines to get the shape all good, then take the film off, mount it between the enclosure and the bottom plate, and use a pad of 600 or 400 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander and just sand it all until it’s flush to the enclosure on all sides. The edges will be frosted from this which will disperse the light really well, but if you do want it to be perfectly clear, just wetsand the edges.

 

[Paradox916]

A skill saw /table saw with the right blade will rip it pretty nicely too but you still have to sand and shape as desired. Don’t rush... it’s kind of a pain in the ass.. but it can turn out pretty cool.

 

[Paradox916]

I just finished one I’m about to post.

 

[Joben Magooch]

I've never done it specifically for light plates/pedals, but acrylic cuts pretty well with most woodworking tools. In the past, I've cut it by using carpet tape (strong double-sided tape) to affix it to my template, rough cut with a jigsaw or something, and then use a flush-trim bit on the router table to get it exactly to the template. You could probably just use the carpet tape to affix it directly to the back plate of the pedal. Make sure the bit's bearing is riding on the pedal plate and that should to it. Clean up the edges with a sander/sandpaper if need be.

Similarly a band saw works great, or you can even use a table saw with the proper blade (high tooth count, triple chip grind, set the blade height higher than you would for wood) on it. Just be careful as acrylic can be a bit more...problematic...should you have a kickback (since it is generally more rigid than wood, it's more prone to shattering or 'exploding). You may want to put tape on the cut line to prevent any chipping, depending on your blade. Of course you won't be able to get the curves at the corners on the table saw, but that's just a quick cleanup with a sander to get them done.

Like I said - haven't done it specifically for any pedal-purposes, but all three have worked for me in various applications in the past. In short, my order of preference would be:
1. Router with template bit
2. Bandsaw (spray-glue the outline to the acrylic)
3. Table saw

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Thanks gents I don't have an awful lot in the way of tools but do have a pretty decent jigsaw. Would that be ok to cut lexan?

I've already finished the enclosure in tweed but hadn't thought to put a light plate on until I finished the pedal and then decided one would finish it off nicely. I'm contemplating using the lexan as a baseplate instead of the actual baseplate so I could probably just screw the lexan and baseplate together and use that to sand the lexan couldn't I?

 

[Paradox916]

Lexan is just a brand name for polycarbonate... it’s a little different from acrylic. Polycarbonate (lexan) is what I used... it’s a little stronger than acrylic but the light transfer is only about 85% instead of 94% of acrylic ( some where in those ballparks) and there are some other things to take into consideration. Lexan machines better I believe... but a jigsaw would be fine maybe clamp it up with a level or some sort of straight edge that you can use as a guide to make cleaner cuts.... hopefully that helps.

 

[Paradox916]

I'm contemplating using the lexan as a baseplate instead of the actual baseplate so I could probably just screw the lexan and baseplate together and use that to sand the lexan couldn't I?

That would work just fine... I did something similar.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Lexan is just a brand name for polycarbonate... it’s a little different from acrylic. Polycarbonate (lexan) is what I used... it’s a little stronger than acrylic but the light transfer is only about 85% instead of 94% of acrylic ( some where in those ballparks) and there are some other things to take into consideration. Lexan machines better I believe... but a jigsaw would be fine maybe clamp it up with a level or some sort of straight edge that you can use as a guide to make cleaner cuts.... hopefully that helps.

Yeah I bought lexan purely because of a recommendation on a madbean thread about 4 years ago before I had a break from pedal building. I found it a few days ago and still haven't used any of it yet. I remember Paul from diyguitarpedals.com.au saying he had lots of acrylic pieces which had cracked or shattered when he tried to drill holes for the corners etc.

I should get a little time this weekend to have a go.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

That would work just fine... I did something similar.

Thanks good to know

 

[Feral Feline]

Yeah I bought lexan purely because of a recommendation on a madbean thread about 4 years ago before I had a break from pedal building. I found it a few days ago and still haven't used any of it yet. I remember Paul from diyguitarpedals.com.au saying he had lots of acrylic pieces which had cracked or shattered when he tried to drill holes for the corners etc.

I should get a little time this weekend to have a go.

I'm probably stating the obvious, but it's a step I always seem to skip and try to go straight to the finished product, ie:

Do a few test pieces.

Purposely try to crack a small test piece to just get the feel for it — ie go fast.
There are bits & blades specifically targeted for use with glass, which I would think will work well for PolyC or Acrylic. One of my wah enclosures came without a backing plate, and I picked up some acrylic/polyC for something else, so I guess I'll find out...

Go slow...

 

[SillyOctpuss]

I'm probably stating the obvious, but it's a step I always seem to skip and try to go straight to the finished product, ie:

Do a few test pieces.

Purposely try to crack a small test piece to just get the feel for it — ie go fast.
There are bits & blades specifically targeted for use with glass, which I would think will work well for PolyC or Acrylic. One of my wah enclosures came without a backing plate, and I picked up some acrylic/polyC for something else, so I guess I'll find out...

Go slow...

In my usual fashion I bought in bulk so have tons of it for when I mess up. I'll definitely be going slow. I also don't have a lot of tools but do have a decent drill, jigsaw and a hand sander which will hopefully work for doing this. I'll post my results when I get a chance to have a go and will include my inevitable disasters

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Well I dug out the lexan I've bought and have probably encountered a problem. I've got 3mm thick lexan which has been pre cut and is too small to cover the back of a 1590bb or I've got much larger pieces of lexan which are only 1.5mm thick.

Would that be too thin for a lightplate to look good? I'm also worried it's a bit too flexible to use as a backplate on its own

 

[Feral Feline]

Is it possible to make the thin lexan a "ring"/"washer" between the original lid and the enclosure.

Alas that way ups the amount of work and possible probable breakage.