Low Tide Mini: "Plover Modulator"

rwl

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
This is my report on a build of the PPCB Low Tide Mini, based on the Fairfield Shallow Water. I like Fairfield pedals, and this one was recommended across the forum. It's a great pedal.

plover_front.jpg

Inspiration
I hadn't done any shorebird pedals, and that was an obvious choice for the "low tide" or "shallow water". Plovers are a type of shorebird, and there's a huge variety of them - I went with the piping plover. I'm not big into shorebirds personally, there's a huge amount and they all look very similar, just different sizes. But I think that plover chicks are about the cutest animal, they barely look real. They're born with feathers and able to walk.

1762233666229.png
1762233671313.png
1762233684229.png

I went with an adult for the pedal, but thinking about it, I think I might need to do a plover chick pedal.

I'm happy with the design. This is a somewhat older pedal, I actually thought I'd posted it before. At this stage I was trying to move from full-background pedals and did a half print background, which I think works pretty well in this case to anchor the bird.

The Build
I didn't have any problems with this build. I believe this was my first double-decker PPCB board, so I was fairly nervous going in. But using the horrible UI on Mouser to find the right capacitors, it wasn't a big deal.

I actually like the double boards, having built a few now. They're a little bit roomier, and it's nice that the controls are all off on their own board.

The Pedal
This is a great pedal, with two drawbacks. It really adds a fluid sound that sounds alive. Maybe a bit similar to some of the warped vinyl type pedals. The distinctive thing here is that there's a random number generator as part of the modulation, making it much more organic than your typical pedal. I don't think there's another pedal like it, so I'd highly recommend it - it was in my top 5 pedals of 2024. It does both a really pleasant chorus effect and standalone modulation. I like it with the subtle chorus, which is achieved with the mix knob around noon. And as you can see, the build is a fun one. I recall reading someone else's review where they said their reaction was "I built this?!" and I kinda feel the same.

The two drawbacks:
  1. For some reason, the pedal has its own gain function. I don't think it sounds particularly good, and basically I always want this to be a smooth background sound. It's been a while since I toggled this, but I think this is is even with the BOOST toggle switch off - I've seen it with the. It just means that the interaction of the knobs is not as much fun as you'd expect. I think this was tied to the GATE/LPG knob turned up.
  2. With some of the knobs cranked up/down, the sounds are quite jarring, and I don't think they're very usable. For me this was with DAMP (SLEW?) turned down and DEPTH turned up. Both of these can cause random sudden modulations that I find quite distracting.
So it mostly comes down to too much functionality, that make me a little hesitant to play around with settings. I suppose there are worse problems.

Firsts
  • 🏖️ First shorebird pedal
  • 🏑First k-field modulator pedal
Build rating: 5/5 ⭐
Pedal rating: 5/5⭐
 

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First, awesome pedal as always! The stacked boards are a ton of fun to build imo.

I'm a huge fan of Fairfield Circuitry pedals and agree that sometimes you can get some unpleasant surprises (see what I did there) from them. They do remind me of the best Dwarfcraft Devices pedals in that way, you can get some really musical sounds out of them but then you can turn around and blow your own foot off with something that sounds terrible. To me part of the fun is the experimental aspect of them and finding the cool and interesting settings.
 
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your power jacks are really interesting ive never seen them before, what are they?

They're "outtie" jacks. You can find them on Tayda or LoveMySwitches. Some people don't like them - they stick out a bit more - but to me it makes no sense that you can easily remove all the electronics from the enclosure except for one jack. With outtie jacks you can solder everything outside the enclosure, and you can easily pop everything out and swap it to a new enclosure. I've used them exclusively since finding out they exist.
 
I’ve always used the “outties” too.

The argument that they stick out doesn’t make any sense to me when you consider that there’s going to be a power chord and two 1/4” audio cables that stick out even more. 🤷‍♀️
 
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Even then, you can use a nut on the inside to make the outie protrude less.

I just ordered the Low Tide- I’m trying to remember why I didn’t opt for the mini version… Maybe for that classic memory man style layout.

Anyway, great build and bird knowledge as always.
 
They're "outtie" jacks. You can find them on Tayda or LoveMySwitches. Some people don't like them - they stick out a bit more - but to me it makes no sense that you can easily remove all the electronics from the enclosure except for one jack. With outtie jacks you can solder everything outside the enclosure, and you can easily pop everything out and swap it to a new enclosure. I've used them exclusively since finding out they exist.
thank you for the tip, this seems really useful, think ill be hunting them down on aliexpress tonight lol
 
Another nice build! I also find the slew control a bit jarring at times, especially when playing lower notes, and somewhat hard to dial in. Going off various demos on YouTube, I wonder if it would be less distracting when running a synth through it.
 
Even then, you can use a nut on the inside to make the outie protrude less.

I just ordered the Low Tide- I’m trying to remember why I didn’t opt for the mini version… Maybe for that classic memory man style layout.

Anyway, great build and bird knowledge as always.
I really want to build one, but the thought of debugging a sandwich like that made me hesitate.

It's a fairly large circuit after all, more likely that something goes wrong.

So big box it is when I get around to it. Sort of the same argument as choosing outie dc jack, not enjoying 1590a builds, etc.
 
This is my report on a build of the PPCB Low Tide Mini, based on the Fairfield Shallow Water. I like Fairfield pedals, and this one was recommended across the forum. It's a great pedal.


Inspiration
I hadn't done any shorebird pedals, and that was an obvious choice for the "low tide" or "shallow water". Plovers are a type of shorebird, and there's a huge variety of them - I went with the piping plover. I'm not big into shorebirds personally, there's a huge amount and they all look very similar, just different sizes. But I think that plover chicks are about the cutest animal, they barely look real. They're born with feathers and able to walk.

I went with an adult for the pedal, but thinking about it, I think I might need to do a plover chick pedal.

I'm happy with the design. This is a somewhat older pedal, I actually thought I'd posted it before. At this stage I was trying to move from full-background pedals and did a half print background, which I think works pretty well in this case to anchor the bird.

The Build
I didn't have any problems with this build. I believe this was my first double-decker PPCB board, so I was fairly nervous going in. But using the horrible UI on Mouser to find the right capacitors, it wasn't a big deal.

I actually like the double boards, having built a few now. They're a little bit roomier, and it's nice that the controls are all off on their own board.

Firsts
  • 🏖️ First shorebird pedal
  • 🏑First k-field modulator pedal
Awesome design and build again!

I prefer outies, too, but would love to find a smaller/narrower version that doesn't ground to the case.
 
Ground to the case? Are you not using plastic ones?
I am now! What I mean is that the only "innie" style small diameter jacks I have seen have metal housings that ground to the case.
DC Jack Same Sky pj-005a.jpg

It's an aesthetic thing problem I have, as I try to align my top mounts jacks and the "outie" audio jacks like this are too wide to play nicely with the common, larger diameter outie in a 125B case. I still use these wider diameter "outies" if I am in 1590 dimension case, where the jacks all fit nicely
DC-1003__61275.jpg

My next pedals (and old pedal reworks) are using the small "innie" style jack wired to a socketed connector so I can still pull it off the boards for removal (and solder the wires to the jack outside of the case). I am just not using a battery, which is fine the PCBs I have built lately.

_MG_7278__51421.jpg


I have used the wrong-side grounding DC power jacks for personal builds before I really thought this through. It's one of the bugs in my last couple of build reports that I need to fix. The positive ground isn't a shorting issue at the moment because I always use isolated audio jacks. But I am not shielded from noise either. In the end, my "standard" will be to use a single ground wire to the case, and isolated jacks/connectors through the case.
 
Another ➕ for outies!

It makes no much sense to me either, having "innies" that can't be removed easily unless you use quick-connects on the wiring.

So what if the "outie" sticks out? Who's going to notice once the patch-cables are plugged in? Nobody, unless you're wasting space with jacks on three sides of the pedal...


Build is awesome, as is the build-report, and as always the theme is spot on.

Now you have to build the large one, but put the cute baby-Plover on the large enclosure.
 
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