Mahayana Drive (Zendrive)

Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
My second completed build, but the first one that I started last year. Somehow, when I first started working on it a year ago, I managed to get solder in about 8 holes before putting components in. Even with desoldering wick, it was a real struggle to get the old solder out of the way to put components in.

I used a 1N34A diode based on something I read somewhere. Not sure how big a difference it makes. Sounds great with it. I'm sure it would sound great with the spec'd diode. Everything else is per spec.

I also managed to wire the foot switch upside down the first time, which I didn't catch until I was ready to put everything in the enclosure. Not too hard to fix, but those wires no longer look nice and tidy.

I ordered a bunch of clearance enclosures from Tayda, so I have some random colors that I wouldn't normally choose on my own. I think this one is 'brown sugar.' Not loving how this one looks, but I like the orange LED I chose more than I thought I would.

Once I buttoned everything up and plugged it in, it worked on the first try, which was super cool. The pedal sounds really nice. I'm a big fan.
 

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Looks good.

May I suggest IC sockets for future builds? It makes troubleshooting easier, and some circuits can use different IC's in the same location so you could swap them out for slightly different tones.
 
Looks good.

May I suggest IC sockets for future builds? It makes troubleshooting easier, and some circuits can use different IC's in the same location so you could swap them out for slightly different tones.
Great idea! I know some people try different ICs in this build, so that would have been good to do for this one. I learn as I go. Appreciate the tip!
 
It's recommended to socket ICs even if you're NOT trying different ICs.

Good looking build, looks more silver than the Brown Sugar, but that could be just down to lighting. The blue and white pop on whatever colour the enclosure is. (y)


Have you got a solder-sucker?

When I've had holes fill up with solder before I can get the component in (or it clogs up removing a component to be swapped),
I use something to stand the PCB on edge so I'm approaching the hole from the side, not top down. Then prime the pump and put the nozzle over the clogged hole, heat it up with the iron from the opposite side. Usually works very well and gives you a clean hole.

When it doesn't, I get out my 1.5mm drill-bit and hand turn it in the hole. Slow and steady or you'll break the drill-bit. Works even with strands of wire mixed into the solder. Key is, go slow. Did I mention do it by hand and go slow?


Orange LEDs 🤘


PS: I was just reminded in another thread about some great desoldering/wicking techniques, thanks to comradehoser and temol — superb video.
 
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