More Skeptical Buffer Wiring Issues

[BQFS]

The fun never ends. I just finished drilling all the holes and mounting the hardware, so all that remains is to wire it up, and that's when I came to a dead halt.

For clarity, this appears to be a Rev 1 board, due to the components and layout, plus the switches are closer together compared with the newer drill template.

Here we go:

At the top of the board, nearest the power jack and in/out jacks (all top mounted as per the template), there are four holes, all with no label.
At the bottom of the board, nearest the stomp switch are four more holes.

On the SB wiring diagram, there are six holes at the top and four at the bottom, all labeled.
Since nothing was labeled, I hate to assume, so I put the meter on continuity and found the following:
Let's call the holes 1-4 starting from left to right.
At the top of the board, holes 1 and 2 are together, and are connected to hole 3 at the bottom. My guess is that one of the two holes at the top receives power from the jack and the other provides power to the onboard CLR, sheer guess.
At the top of the board, hole 3 does not appear to connect to anything, but hole 4 also connects to hole 3 at the bottom.

It would REALLY be helpful to obtain a schematic (page 4), wiring diagram (page 5), and component value pictorial (page 2) for the Rev 1 board I actually have. Newer versions just don't appear to be close enough to generalize.

I am not the world's greatest visualizer so as I often do, I picked too small an enclosure, so everything is a tight fit. I suppose, if I have to, I can remove the board from the enclosure and trace the wiring manually, but I am hoping I am not the only one who found themselves in this boat.

Also, I got conflicting advice about the output resistor R13. On the schematic I have, it shows a 10 ohm resistor. On the board, it shows 100K - quite a difference. One person on the forum told me to use the value on the board (100K) and another told me to disregard that and use 10 ohms, which I did. That much difference should certainly make a huge difference in the amplitude of the output, so does anyone know which value I should be using?

Finally, I had intended to use one of those large blue stomp switches, which I have way too many of, since it has the built-in LED, but it is too big to fit, so I have gone back to a regular-size switch. Normally, I would use the PPCD daughter board, but I only have one left (I already soldered my second-to-last one to the big blue switch) and don't want to use it if there is no 1-1 relationship between it's holes and the ones on the board.

If I use another outfit's daughter board, I can more easily wire up the input and output jacks, plus it makes it a LOT easier to wire up an LED near the switch. I have NO idea where to put an LED if I can't do it that way.

In my own defense, I didn't buy this board directly from PPCB. I ran into a guy on Reddit who said he had ADHD and was getting out of building pedals. I bought a ton of stuff from him, and this board was part of that.

Okay, I will shut up now and hope for some very much appreciated assistance. Thanks in advance. I suppose this is what I get for using an out of date board.

Bud

 

[Feral Feline]

First off, you are not alone.

Many people jumped on this circuit as soon as a PCB was available.
The info you seek is on the forum, some of same said info you may have to hunt for it yourself.

I believe I have the early rev as well. I've marked on my copy of the build doc that

"Even if the PCB says it's 100k, it's 10r"

Also on my doc, lacking the schematic "Revised 2/29/24" (latest rev currently online is "Revised 4/24/24",
on the PCB image with REFDES — Next to R13 in GREEN, I've marked it as "10r".

This would be one of those exceptions to the rule that "whatever the doc says, go with what's on the board" —
in this case, go with the 10r


For wiring up the effect-loop, here you go.

For wiring up the top four holes of the board, when you said: "Let's call the holes 1-4 starting from left to right." — is that left to right looking at the component-filled side of the board? Probably, but it doesn't hurt to make sure by asking because you said that 1 & 2 holes are together and connected to 3 at the bottom — leads me to believe you're looking at the "nibs"/solder-side of the board or you've got a SOLDER-BRIDGE BETWEEN 1&2 because...

Looking at the populated side of the board, top four holes:
G + - G
◉◉◉◉

1&2 should NOT be connected.
The outer holes are for running a ground wire to your I/O jacks' grounds.
So the "-" should show continuity with the outer holes, the last two holes at the top (and the first), if looking at the populated side, should be ground.

Check the second hole, "+", with your continuity tester and make sure it's going to D100, a 1N5817. If it is connected to the other holes then you have a solder bridge and must reflow solder and in that process destroy the bridge.


At the bottom of the board, looking at the populated side:
IN G SW OUT
◉ ◉ ◉ ◉


Those 4 holes on the motherboard correspond to the middle four holes of the 3PDT breakout board (IF you've got the standard breakout-board and not mistakenly trying to connect either of the BUFFERED 3PDT breakout or the KLON-3PDT breakout boards.

The Standard 3PDT Breakout holes are thusly:

IJ IN G SW OUT OJ
◉ ◉ ◉ ◉ ◉ ◉

So, that 3rd hole should have continuity with holes 1,3&4 at the top — they're all ground.

"IJ" — run a wire from the "tip" of your in jack
"OJ" — run a wire to the "tip" of your out jack
THE MIDDLE 4 of the 6 SHOULD LINE UP STRAIGHT ACROSS to the bottom 4 of the main-board.


The PPCB standard 3PDT breakout boards ground the circuit's input on bypass, so you MUST solder the breakout board on its correct side to your 3PDT-switch. If flipped, it won't work properly.

With your continuity-tester, check the breakout board's hole for pin-1 of the 3PDT, it should connect to where pin 6 goes.

1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9

Here's how you'd wire it without the breakout board:

If you ever have to start another troubleshooting thread...

POST PICs!

That is standard operating procedure in the troubleshooting forum, because it is much easier to see what may be wrong than to interpret someone's description of it.