Muzzle Classic - mini slide switch

zipfool

Member
I think I may have gotten the wrong kind of mini slide switch for muzzle Classic. The one I ordered on Tayda has, what appears to be, 5 pins instead of 3:





Would this one work better, or can I just clip/cut off the outside pins on the switch I already bought?
 

Attachments

  • A-659_2.jpg
    A-659_2.jpg
    3.8 KB · Views: 3
I have used this one and it works just fine.


I have also made it an external switch. And I use it a lot more than I thought I would. And if you play a lot of dynamic stuff going from high gain chugging to leads in a live situation using a stomp for the range switch would be pretty handy IMO.
 
Those outside pins are just for physical stabilization— many times a PCB would have additional holes for the switch to mount to from those pins, and it just makes it so there’s less stress on the actual switch mechanism when being actuated or from small accidental shear impacts. You could clip the outer two pins off without any adverse impact and still use it in your muzzle if the pin spacing of the inner three pins fits the board.
 
So, at 12mm wide, the switch I got is too wide to fit the other components in, particularly the THAT4301 module. I got the pedal PCB THAT4301 replacement module, and the terminals I'd need to solder in place wouldn't fit with the switch there.

I have used this one and it works just fine.


I have also made it an external switch. And I use it a lot more than I thought I would. And if you play a lot of dynamic stuff going from high gain chugging to leads in a live situation using a stomp for the range switch would be pretty handy IMO.
Did you install that switch on the Muzzle Classic, or the one with the SMD THAT4301?

The datasheet shows a width of 10mm, which still looks too wide to fit the other components. Mind posting a photo of your build?
 
The build I did with the internal switch Was the classic and I used a 4301 but I no longer have that one the next was I did an external toggle
And I also did a write up on the retrofit module.





Not sure if it helps but the width shouldn’t be an issue but if there isn’t room you could always relocate the switch, or go external
 
Hey gang I know this thread is a little older but since we’re talking about that little range switch, I wanted to jump in and ask another easy question about it:

Does it MATTER how the switch is “rotated” for it to function properly?

Meaning, if I look at that component (I got the proper recommended Tayda one) I see a little 1-2-3 embossed into it.

So, like, should it still function whether or not those little embossed numbers are facing me or away from me as I peer down the edge of the PCB?
 
  • Like
Reactions: fig
Back
Top