Oasis

Paradox916

Well-known member
For me a TS should be standard issue, It’s absolutely a necessary piece of gear for me, I have tried a few different types and I do like a lot of EQD stuff, so this was along time coming, Holy bujeezus is this thing loud! volume on tap for day unity is around 9 O’clock depending on the voicing, and the bandwidth can give a nice low end to it, As a boost this thing is an absolute beast of a screamer. BF712E51-B37E-464A-B2CD-8C2E0C46B021.jpeg 60AE674B-C321-4690-834D-E60745843869.jpeg 7A55FEB0-4749-4FC9-84DE-769FD9090DBE.jpeg 37056BCA-6B8D-4A85-B3C8-AA9303E5D9B7.jpeg
 
Yeah gonna need that demo on this one 🤣
I’ll try and make that happen
That wiring is soooo clean. Gorgeous work!
🙏
Very nice build, excellent artwork.
I don't agree with everything EQD did in that circuit, but that's par for the course.
thanks!, I will have to admit when I first fired it up I thought there had to be a wrong value component in there, but after double checking everything and then doing a little home work, reading that the original operates in the same way and talking to others that have built an Oasis saying they experienced the same. And after playing with it for a little bit I didn’t find any deal breakers or defects in how it interacted with the rest of my rig so far. So I’m probably going to let it ride. But in short I agree with you there seems to be something suspect with the circuit it self, even though it operates and sound fine to me if that make sense.
 
thanks!, I will have to admit when I first fired it up I thought there had to be a wrong value component in there, but after double checking everything and then doing a little home work, reading that the original operates in the same way and talking to others that have built an Oasis saying they experienced the same. And after playing with it for a little bit I didn’t find any deal breakers or defects in how it interacted with the rest of my rig so far. So I’m probably going to let it ride. But in short I agree with you there seems to be something suspect with the circuit it self, even though it operates and sound fine to me if that make sense.
In the end, the only thing that matters is whether it works for you.

No popping when you engage or disengage the stomp switch?

At 1M, R15 is way to big to be an effective ant-pop resistor. C9 is an aluminum electrolytic and those leak current. 100nA leakage into 1M = 100mV which you will definitely hear when you hit the stomp switch. Some (most?) aluminum electrolytics will leak far more than 100nA.

If it was my pedal, I'd do one of the following:
1. Make C9 tantalum.
2. Reduce C9 to 1uF and make it film.
3. reduce R15 to 100K or lower.

The TONE control is very sensitive near 7:00 and 5:00. If you always set TONE between 10:00 and 2:00, then it's no big deal. Ibanez uses W-taper for the TONE pot and there is still a pretty big change from 7:00 to 8:00 and 4:00 to 5:00. Making TONE a 5K pot helps, a little. Since W5K pots are hard to find, another option is to make the TONE pot W20K, increase R7, R9. R10 & R19 4x and decrease C5, C6 & C13 4X. you'll have the exact same freq response range as The Dunes, but much less touchy at the ends ot the TONE pot travel.

The VOLUME pot would have a better feel below noon if it was A100K, If you find you're always setting it above noon, then leave it B100K.

The minimum gain setting is 27dB, which is too high to play clean with hot pickups. If you want to be able to set DRIVE low enough to use this as a clean boost, then reduce R6 to 4.7K.

Just my $0.02, YMMV, yadda yadda yadda.
 
In the end, the only thing that matters is whether it works for you.

No popping when you engage or disengage the stomp switch?

At 1M, R15 is way to big to be an effective ant-pop resistor. C9 is an aluminum electrolytic and those leak current. 100nA leakage into 1M = 100mV which you will definitely hear when you hit the stomp switch. Some (most?) aluminum electrolytics will leak far more than 100nA.

If it was my pedal, I'd do one of the following:
1. Make C9 tantalum.
2. Reduce C9 to 1uF and make it film.
3. reduce R15 to 100K or lower.

The TONE control is very sensitive near 7:00 and 5:00. If you always set TONE between 10:00 and 2:00, then it's no big deal. Ibanez uses W-taper for the TONE pot and there is still a pretty big change from 7:00 to 8:00 and 4:00 to 5:00. Making TONE a 5K pot helps, a little. Since W5K pots are hard to find, another option is to make the TONE pot W20K, increase R7, R9. R10 & R19 4x and decrease C5, C6 & C13 4X. you'll have the exact same freq response range as The Dunes, but much less touchy at the ends ot the TONE pot travel.

The VOLUME pot would have a better feel below noon if it was A100K, If you find you're always setting it above noon, then leave it B100K.

The minimum gain setting is 27dB, which is too high to play clean with hot pickups. If you want to be able to set DRIVE low enough to use this as a clean boost, then reduce R6 to 4.7K.

Just my $0.02, YMMV, yadda yadda yadda.
I didn’t notice any popping with the switch, could have to do a lot with how my set up runs, I only play through headphones, and I also run noise gates as the very first pedal and a gate in my DAW( this is pretty standard for a lot of modern type low tuned high gain metal type tones… You got me curious now I will have to bread board that circuit and check it out, I do 💯 agree an A100k would make the volume range more useable for me. I do see the appeal of this pedal for the heavy modern player, it does the “Djent” thing very well.
 
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