anevilspar7an
Well-known member
- Build Rating
- 4.00 star(s)
I've had this for a while, close to when I started out actually since this is version 1 of the board with the 1P8T rotary footprint. I decided to revisit it since it'll be a long time before I can afford an actual Ampeg SVT Classic. One of the few boards that actually works for me, though since it is a Bajaman circuit I expect it would take a special kind of someone to ruin it. I don't like the control layout personally, the switches are too close to the gain knob and to each other. I somehow got the toggle switch bezels to fit on them, don't ask me how since I don't remember what I did.
Tomic Gold 1590BBS with Textured Black bottom plate from Stompbox Parts, Wima Film caps, Kemet large value MLCC, TDK small value MLCC, AVX Tantalums, pre-tariff Alpha potentiometers, LMS switches, Lumberg jacks, and knobs, boss style. Left-to-Right, Top-to-Bottom: Treble, Mids, Bass, Level, Gain, Lo, Hi, Bright, Mid Freq.
I did do the Bajaman mods by changing C3 to 4.7nF, R7 to 560K, and removing D1 and D2 for a cleaner range.
Some personal mods was to put D1 and D2 on a footswitch to be able to drive the output gain, C17 and C18 are Tantalum since they are in the audio path, and C9 is 5.1nF since I can't find 5nF by itself, I already know I could've used two 10nF in series to get it, I really didn't want to do that. Gain and Level are A100K instead of B100K for better feel. I do plan to change the two 22mH inductors at a later date to 20mH like in the original circuit.
For the second LED I piggybacked the anode for power and put the ground on the switch that goes to the output jack since it was closest, I'll probably move that to a different ground point it becomes an issue.
Tomic Gold 1590BBS with Textured Black bottom plate from Stompbox Parts, Wima Film caps, Kemet large value MLCC, TDK small value MLCC, AVX Tantalums, pre-tariff Alpha potentiometers, LMS switches, Lumberg jacks, and knobs, boss style. Left-to-Right, Top-to-Bottom: Treble, Mids, Bass, Level, Gain, Lo, Hi, Bright, Mid Freq.
I did do the Bajaman mods by changing C3 to 4.7nF, R7 to 560K, and removing D1 and D2 for a cleaner range.
Some personal mods was to put D1 and D2 on a footswitch to be able to drive the output gain, C17 and C18 are Tantalum since they are in the audio path, and C9 is 5.1nF since I can't find 5nF by itself, I already know I could've used two 10nF in series to get it, I really didn't want to do that. Gain and Level are A100K instead of B100K for better feel. I do plan to change the two 22mH inductors at a later date to 20mH like in the original circuit.
For the second LED I piggybacked the anode for power and put the ground on the switch that goes to the output jack since it was closest, I'll probably move that to a different ground point it becomes an issue.