Rockman X100 Power Supply With MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter

[TheCleaner6969]

I am not familiar with a dual rail power supply. I need to know how to connect a (MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter Adjustable Power Supply) for +6.4v - 6.00v for a Rockman X100. I was told I need to remove the 220uf caps @ C1 C2 but my board isn't marked with C1 or C2 & do I just use wire after I remove the 220uf caps & connect + to + & - to -?

I know how to connect the 2 MP1584EN together & attached a picture & I think I'm correct attaching them to battery board which I attached pictures of. What has me most confused is there is 2 -6v as outputs so do i have to use both? I attached a picture of what I think is right.

 

[Cybercow]

The two larger caps nearest that center ribbon cable are C1 & C2 - those need the removed. No jumpers need be applied. The 22µF caps as replacements are optional, but not required.

And while that MP1584EN combo-pair has two -6V outputs, either one can be used. They are the same (connected).

Your attached image with the connection points from the MP1584EN combo-pair appears to be correct.

Before you connect the MP1584EN combo-pair to the X100, power up that MP1584EN combo-pair with +9V and set the voltages for each rail using those tiny trimpots on the boards.
One is for the positive rail - set it to anywhere between +6.5V and +7.2V
The other is for the negative rail - set it to anywhere between -6.5V and -7.2V - NOTE THAT THE NEGATIVE RAIL MUST BE 0.2V LESS THAN THE POSITIVE RAIL.
The trimpots on those MP1584EN boards are finicky and it may take a bit of fiddling to get them where they need to be. But once they're set, they do remain stable. At least, in my experience they remain stable once set.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

The two larger caps nearest that center ribbon cable are C1 & C2 - those need the removed. No jumpers need be applied. The 22µF caps as replacements are optional, but not required.

And while that MP1584EN combo-pair has two -6V outputs, either one can be used. They are the same (connected).

Your attached image with the connection points from the MP1584EN combo-pair appears to be correct.

Before you connect the MP1584EN combo-pair to the X100, power up that MP1584EN combo-pair with +9V and set the voltages for each rail using those tiny trimpots on the boards.
One is for the positive rail - set it to anywhere between +6.5V and +7.2V
The other is for the negative rail - set it to anywhere between -6.5V and -7.2V - NOTE THAT THE NEGATIVE RAIL MUST BE 0.2V LESS THAN THE POSITIVE RAIL.
The trimpots on those MP1584EN boards are finicky and it may take a bit of fiddling to get them where they need to be. But once they're set, they do remain stable. At least, in my experience they remain stable once set.

Thank you very much for that info! I much appreciate it! I take it I can use a 1 Spot with a dasiy chain or does it have to be a single 9v 500mA input supply?

 

[Cybercow]

The X100 draws about 400mA, so I'd not trust it in a daisy chain power supply. I've tested this power supply with an isolated DC brick (@ 500mA output) and it works well. Most any +9V DC (neg cent) wall-wart at ≥400mA should work fine. Using a higher current output will not harm the X100 as it will only draw ~400mA.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

The X100 draws about 400mA, so I'd not trust it in a daisy chain power supply. I've tested this power supply with an isolated DC brick (@ 500mA output) and it works well. Most any +9V DC (neg cent) wall-wart at ≥400mA should work fine. Using a higher current output will not harm the X100 as it will only draw ~400mA.

Thank you for that info! I have 9v 600mA I could use or just buy a 1 Spot for the input supply & use it separate (no daisy chain). I seen a video on YT someone made saying there needs to be a 3v difference between the input & output or the module craps out. Is that true? Here's the link

 

[RetiredUnit1]

Thank you for that info! I have 9v 600mA I could use or just buy a 1 Spot for the input supply & use it separate (no daisy chain). I seen a video on YT someone made saying there needs to be a 3v difference between the input & output or the module craps out. Is that true? Here's the link

It is true that you need 3v of difference. I used some of these to convert the DC from 18650 batteries. I used four in series to make around 15V so my 9V gives me that drop. Suckers are dead silent..... Tayda sells the 4S 18650 sleds for about a buck each.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

It is true that you need 3v of difference. I used some of these to convert the DC from 18650 batteries. I used four in series to make around 15V so my 9V gives me that drop. Suckers are dead silent..... Tayda sells the 4S 18650 sleds for about a buck each.

Thank you for your info. So if I use a 9v supply & set one rail @ +6.5v & the other rail @ -6.3v it won't work?

 

[RetiredUnit1]

Thank you for your info. So if I use a 9v supply & set one rail @ +6.5v & the other rail @ -6.3v it won't work?

You'd be better off with a 12vdc supply. I haven't actually tried to see what would happen but the specs definitely specify *at least* 3v of difference.

MP1584EN datasheet(1/17 Pages) MPS

MP15843A, 1.5MHz, 28VStep-Down ConverterMP1584 Rev. 1.0www.MonolithicPower.com18/8/2011MPS Proprietary Information. Unauthorized Photocopy and Duplication Prohibited.© 2011 MPS. All Rights Reserved.The Future of Analog IC Technology Datasheet search, datasheets, Datasheet search site for...

html.alldatasheet.com

 

[hamerfan]

I checked the specs with the different modules offered. On the fixed output modules they stated that the input should be 2.0 v higher than the output.

 

[Cybercow]

I checked the specs with the different modules offered. On the fixed output modules they stated that the input should be 2.0 v higher than the output.

Yeah, as BC down-converters, the output will always be lower than the input - fixed or adjustable.

Also note that on different modules, (I've tried five (5) different BC chips), only the MP1584EN BC modules will work for dual-rail supplies as I've shown in my dual-rail supply. Theaters I've tried, (list below), just go into shut-down mode.

In this configuration, in practice and in use in several builds, I've been able to get a nice, clean dual-rail ±7.5V output from a +9V source. And as long as the current draw remains ≤1A, they don't even get warm.

LM2596 - 150K Hz, 200mV ripple - have some WILL NOT INVERT
XL4015 - 180K Hz, <0.5mV ripple (w/1,000µF 50V electrolytic & 0.1µF ceramic disc cap across the output) - have some (better than the LM2596) WILL NOT INVERT
XL6009E1 - 400K Hz, WILL NOT INVERT
MP1584EN - 1M Hz - 30mV ripple - have some (first dual-rail test circuit) WILL INVERT - 22mm * 17mm * 4mm
MP2307DN - 340kHz; 30mV ripple; In: 5-23v; Out: 1-17v @ 1.8A (max) WILL NOT INVERT - 17.2mm * 11.2mm * 4mm

 

[TheCleaner6969]

You'd be better off with a 12vdc supply. I haven't actually tried to see what would happen but the specs definitely specify *at least* 3v of difference.

MP1584EN datasheet(1/17 Pages) MPS

MP15843A, 1.5MHz, 28VStep-Down ConverterMP1584 Rev. 1.0www.MonolithicPower.com18/8/2011MPS Proprietary Information. Unauthorized Photocopy and Duplication Prohibited.© 2011 MPS. All Rights Reserved.The Future of Analog IC Technology Datasheet search, datasheets, Datasheet search site for...

html.alldatasheet.com

Ok thank you. I'll look for a 12v supply.

 

[hamerfan]

Ok thank you. I'll look for a 12v supply.

Should work fine with 9volt source up to ±7.5 volt.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

Should work fine with 9volt source up to ±7.5 volt.

Thank you! I will try a 9v & see.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

Yeah, as BC down-converters, the output will always be lower than the input - fixed or adjustable.

Also note that on different modules, (I've tried five (5) different BC chips), only the MP1584EN BC modules will work for dual-rail supplies as I've shown in my dual-rail supply. Theaters I've tried, (list below), just go into shut-down mode.

View attachment 70932In this configuration, in practice and in use in several builds, I've been able to get a nice, clean dual-rail ±7.5V output from a +9V source. And as long as the current draw remains ≤1A, they don't even get warm.

LM2596 - 150K Hz, 200mV ripple - have some WILL NOT INVERT
XL4015 - 180K Hz, <0.5mV ripple (w/1,000µF 50V electrolytic & 0.1µF ceramic disc cap across the output) - have some (better than the LM2596) WILL NOT INVERT
XL6009E1 - 400K Hz, WILL NOT INVERT
MP1584EN - 1M Hz - 30mV ripple - have some (first dual-rail test circuit) WILL INVERT - 22mm * 17mm * 4mm
MP2307DN - 340kHz; 30mV ripple; In: 5-23v; Out: 1-17v @ 1.8A (max) WILL NOT INVERT - 17.2mm * 11.2mm *I have

I have another X100 but it has the side TRS power jack. I just want to confirm with you that I can wire this power supply up to a male TRS 3.5mm using the +6v to "Tip" -6v to "Ring", & the Shield/Ground to the "Sleeve"?

 

[Cybercow]

I have another X100 but it has the side TRS power jack. I just want to confirm with you that I can wire this power supply up to a male TRS 3.5mm using the +6v to "Tip" -6v to "Ring", & the Shield/Ground to the "Sleeve"?

The +6v to "Tip" -6v to "Ring" needs to be metered for continuity. I am not familiar enough with the use of the 3.5mm TRS PS jack in the X100 to know off the top of my head. Pretty sure the shield/ground is to the "Sleeve".

But C1 & C1 (those two 220µF caps) would need to be removed to use that BC module pair configuration. Otherwise, at boot up, the MP1584EN combo-pair would see those two 220µF caps as a load spike and cause the MP1584EN combo-pair to go immediately into shut-down.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

The +6v to "Tip" -6v to "Ring" needs to be metered for continuity. I am not familiar enough with the use of the 3.5mm TRS PS jack in the X100 to know off the top of my head. Pretty sure the shield/ground is to the "Sleeve".

But C1 & C1 (those two 220µF caps) would need to be removed to use that BC module pair configuration. Otherwise, at boot up, the MP1584EN combo-pair would see those two 220µF caps as a load spike and cause the MP1584EN combo-pair to go immediately into shut-down.

If I just soldered the MP1584EN to the battery board with this Rockman instead of using the side TRS jack would I need to mod any other parts or would I be ok in just leaving the 3.5mm TRS jack alone & not using it?

I did find this. I'm not sure if it's the same as the MP1584EN. https://www.ebay.com/itm/295968026148?itmmeta=01HSCWSZ8GKQ7XPHF7MCSZ141W&hash=item44e911ae24:g:87cAAOSwL5hkG19V&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0DVYqtXXNNMtFqWuoiitwWq0ymhp6FhQnD8YkwgIoEJH807w3ZPovCGKwrjz3Y55gUgDx8dqeCeyTpdxFGrtWNDGLHWAzRu/wRQyEjpIQ3WkCqBu1BkKS09ocCM3UHjFrlxP06R3A2qCWXgFD6bc3XtmrFm/R9+CnaGVbuWU8zok6ODM4jKkFKjmUQDai6RPCIp4jwgCctQeDOkVLFm/bYnOuvPlxrOXU7Ny9MIiR8pjSK/Hr6ANCle1MHuPUBbq6B9xd7mXKdwDsjit5hhuHs4=|tkp:Bk9SR6r055zLYw

Here's a picture of how the 3.5mm jack is wired. Someone on Reverb messaged me & told me the following on their listing stating the following:

"The adapter is hard to get, but if you can find some other adapter with +-6V DC, you can rewire it.
Just use classic 3.5mm stereo male jack, the tip is +6V, ring is -6V and sleeve is ground.
Runs nicely on 8 AA batteries though".

 

[Cybercow]

To be clear, just one MP1584EN module is insufficient. It takes two wired in the fashion shown in the image I posted.

That eBay item is not the same as an MP1584EN.

Just wire them as you've shown in the 2nd image of your OP. You can remove or leave the 3.5mm jack. I you leave it in place with the MP1584EN modules mounted internally, simply don't use it. Personally, I'd replace the 3.5mm jack with a 2.1mm DC style jack to accept a +9V supply to source the MP1584EN module pair.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

To be clear, just one MP1584EN module is insufficient. It takes two wired in the fashion shown in the image I posted.

That eBay item is not the same as an MP1584EN.

Just wire them as you've shown in the 2nd image of your OP. You can remove or leave the 3.5mm jack. I you leave it in place with the MP1584EN modules mounted internally, simply don't use it. Personally, I'd replace the 3.5mm jack with a 2.1mm DC style jack to accept a +9V supply to source the MP1584EN module pair.

That's a great idea. I built the 2 boards here's a picture of the boards I wired up. So I would just remove the TRS jack mount the 5.5mm x 2.1mm female jack but make sure it's positive center then wire like my updated drawing?

 

[Cybercow]

The 1-Spot wall-wart is a negative center PS unit. So just be sure to apply the most appropriate polarity for your needs.

The drawing you've posted shows a negative-center PS input. I use a negative center in all my X-100 builds/projects. It simply helps keep me sane to not have to worry about any positive center PS units floating around to errantly fry any of my effects.

 

[TheCleaner6969]

The 1-Spot wall-wart is a negative center PS unit. So just be sure to apply the most appropriate polarity for your needs.

The drawing you've posted shows a negative-center PS input. I use a negative center in all my X-100 builds/projects. It simply helps keep me sane to not have to worry about any positive center PS units floating around to errantly fry any of my effects.

The 1 Spot was for my first X100 I did that didn't have the PS on the side. The X100 with the TRS PS jack is for my brother. I got confused when you said "3.5mm jack with a 2.1mm DC style jack to accept a +9V supply" in your early reply. I was not sure if there was anything different in the X100 circuit that has the TRS PS jack on the side. I'm just going to take out the TRS PS jack & replace it with the 5.5mm x 2.1mm jack & connect the appropriate wires from the 2 - MP1584EN modules to where they connect on the battery board on his with neg center.