MODIFICATION Teaser: I've got a Circulator mod in the works

For Mod 14 - I think the circled points for 1U are the anodes for using polarised tanty caps, is this correct?
Naturally on my order I ordered 3 instead of 4, would I be better off substituting 1UF MLCC?
1726627501091.png
 
Oh yeah MLCC should be fine. Not my first choice, but good enough.

When I first started building pedals, I bought just what I needed and quickly learned that it's better to order spares and gradually build up an inventory.
 
Looks like I left it at B25K going off the photos I have.

Chucks Mod's in post #12.
I did 1, 2, 3, 4 (looks very similar to Raspymcnasty's in #43)
5, 6, 7 (dont think i changed C14) 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14(or maybe i didnt?)
Didnt do 13, in hindsight I dont much like the vibrato mode either.

for mod 4, I used 14pin dip sockets with the 16pin chips, so I could solder in 1/8w resistors
 
Im planning to do 1 (leave C1), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7(leave 14), 8, 9, 10, 12

C7, C9-C11 film
C13-C14 tant
C25k for depth

I'm mostly writing this down for personal reference or ill forget by the time parts get here.

I'm still a little confused on when and where to use tant caps because I there's lots of conflicting info online. Lots of claims that tants sound terrible but that's probably in comparison to film.

From what I understand:
Film>Mlcc (C0G) >ceramic for small values
Film>Tant>Alumium is better for anything in the audio path for large values
Tant and Aluminum are pretty much equivalent in the power supply performance wise

Tants are smaller and more reliable long term than Aluminum but are more expensive and fail more catastrophically
Aluminums come in higher capacitance and voltage values if needed and have more leakage (needed for some designs)
 
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