If I may opine; Tayda's enclosures are particularly close to the Hammond drawings (unlike boxes I've gotten from other places), so in my library of things are all of those PDFs so I match them basically to what's in the CAD (scaling up required on most of them). Can't say the same for other places' enclosures, however.
www.sunnyscopa.com
Am I the only idiot who never realized the whole point was to transfer toner to the enclosure, and that you are meant to take off the film after? Is that what film free means? I think I've done this, maybe with just waterslides, but never removed the film.....
Here's a bit about the Sunnyscopa glue types...
W1+ is for smooth hard surfaces.
W2 is or porous and rough surfaces.
GW1-Pro, a replacement for Glue W1, W1+
Glue (W1+/W2/GW1-Pro)W1+ / 50ml (1.7fl oz)
Specialized Glue for Film-Free Decal Transfer.Binds the printed Laser Toner to various surfaces and creates a protective top-coating for the pigment. W1+ is for smooth hard surfaces. W2 is or porous and rough surfaces. Introducing the new GW1-Pro, a replacement for Glue W1, W1+, and W2 used with...
How would you bake it tho
I guess it would depend on the wood, finish on the headstock and gain filling. It could be done but might not look good. Most headstock waterslides use metallic inks that pop. They aren't toner. They have instructions for using it wood on the website.
The instructions on their site detail curing for things that can’t be baked.
I’m mainly thinking with the metallic stuff that @Harry Klippton has used, since custom metallic decals tend to be either waterslides with really noticeable edges, or vinyl decals that don’t have fantastic adhesion.
www.sunnyscopa.com
In the early days of my no film usage, I used a hair dryer instead of the first bake, and it was far less reliable. One day I decided to try the oven instead and it was like cavemen discovering fire.
