The MOD Squad

[Winterbloom]

You should have a 10mm space since the pots use 10mm, I measured 10 1uF 630V caps from Tayda and 2 were under 10mm thick for my builds.

That's what I guessed (had a look at the datasheet of the pots). So, you also used the 1uF value for C2, right? I am wondering how the Bathtub sounds with the original value (22nF), since the filtering is also on the dry signal. Or am I wrong? I don't wanna try it, because I hate desoldering, especially on PCBs from overseas. ;-)

 

[SamuelG]

Hey Winterbloom,
To clarify what happens with C2:
- If you use a 0.47uF HV cap the dry HPF is set to around 20Hz.
- If you squeeze a 1uF cap in for C2, then you basically don’t have a HPF for the dry path at all. (Which may not be the better option as some sub-bass filtering can be helpful)
Whether you use a 0.47uF or a 1uF in C2, you are getting no audible bass cut, so if you have 1uF, use those (like I did).
I mentioned the 0.47uF HV caps because they are the limit to how small I’d recommend while being smaller and cheaper if people wanted that option.
With my mod, the switched caps only apply a HPF to the reverb effect.
The original needed the 22nF C2 cap as it provided a simple and effective HPF for the reverb to stop it sounding muddy without complicating the circuit and keeping costs down.
I’d love to know how you go with your build