Triangulum & Integral Preamp - omit unnecessary parts, save some time & $

[dlazzarini]

Thank you for your help.

Is “always” true for any electrolytic in these pedal builds? Do we just use them to save money?

I am now planning to omit the leftover switching crap in my integral/triangulum builds. ??

How about the 6M8? Can I just swap to fortins’ 1M?

I was just browsing through these older threads and just saw this. Can you clarify what you mean by “Fortin’s 1m”. Is it simply Fortin uses a 1m resistor instead of the 6.8m on the Triangulum? If so do you know why? Hoping maybe somebody could fill me in. I see Chuck said it would perhaps load the pickup more. What effect would that have?

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

I was just browsing through these older threads and just saw this. Can you clarify what you mean by “Fortin’s 1m”. Is it simply Fortin uses a 1m resistor instead of the 6.8m on the Triangulum? If so do you know why? Hoping maybe somebody could fill me in. I see Chuck said it would perhaps load the pickup more. What effect would that have?

Yes.
No. If I had to guess, it would be that Fortin didn't have any 6.8M resistors.
At 1M the loading will probably not be audible.

 

[Moltenmetalburn]

I was just browsing through these older threads and just saw this. Can you clarify what you mean by “Fortin’s 1m”. Is it simply Fortin uses a 1m resistor instead of the 6.8m on the Triangulum? If so do you know why? Hoping maybe somebody could fill me in. I see Chuck said it would perhaps load the pickup more. What effect would that have?

I did use that 1M value and felt I could discern no difference as chuck has already said.

 

[dlazzarini]

Yes.
No. If I had to guess, it would be that Fortin didn't have any 6.8M resistors.
At 1M the loading will probably not be audible.

Thanks guys

 

[digitalsea]

Hey @Chuck D. Bones - Firstly, thanks for your work here. Learn something new each time.
I'm working through your notes / comments above and got a couple of queries.

You've noted:

Replace R16 with a jumper, use either 20K or 22K for R6. Makes no difference.​

Then clarified in a later comment:

For more Bass, make R12 bigger, Make R16 smaller. Try changing them both to 10K​

I'm assuming that we just make the R6 / R16 combo resistor 10k as well as R12 10k? Sorry, seems obvious but just want to make sure.

You've also noted that Q1 and Q2 are functionally useless and can be removed. I understand that Q1 can just be omitted, but do we need to jumper Q2s pins? I assume just omitting Q2 from the PCB means the audio path is broken?

Thanks again Chuck. Learnt alot reading through your posts.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

You've noted:

Replace R16 with a jumper, use either 20K or 22K for R6. Makes no difference.​

Then clarified in a later comment:

For more Bass, make R12 bigger, Make R16 smaller. Try changing them both to 10K​

I'm assuming that we just make the R6 / R16 combo resistor 10k as well as R12 10k? Sorry, seems obvious but just want to make sure.

In the 2nd sentence, I was answering a question about an unmodified Triangulum.

If you perform the mods and want more bass, then leave C15 in. Jumper R15 & R6. Make R2 22K. Make R16 2.7K. These are not magic values, just a recommended first try. Since I don't know how much more bass you want, you would be better off temporarily installing an A25K pot in place of R2 and R16. Dial-in the amount of bass you want, then remove the pot, measure it and install the nearest standard resistors for R2 and R16.

You've also noted that Q1 and Q2 are functionally useless and can be removed. I understand that Q1 can just be omitted, but do we need to jumper Q2s pins? I assume just omitting Q2 from the PCB means the audio path is broken?

Things get a little muddy because the Integral & Trianglulum ref designators don't match. At the beginning of this thread, I was talking about both pedals. For the purpose of this discussion, let's focus on the Triangulum.

Q2, R9, R10, D1 and D2 get removed and nothing goes in their place. You could reconfigure R10 as an anti-pop resistor, but it's not really necessary since the stomp switch grounds the board input in bypass mode.

Q1 can be removed, but we need to add jumpers, lift an IC lead and change some resistors. A lot of effort to save one transistor. Make your build easy, leave Q1 alone.

Thanks again Chuck. Learnt a lot reading through your posts.

You're very welcome.

 

[digitalsea]

In the 2nd sentence, I was answering a question about an unmodified Triangulum.

If you perform the mods and want more bass, then leave C15 in. Jumper R15 & R6. Make R2 22K. Make R16 2.7K. These are not magic values, just a recommended first try. Since I don't know how much more bass you want, you would be better off temporarily installing an A25K pot in place of R2 and R16. Dial-in the amount of bass you want, then remove the pot, measure it and install the nearest standard resistors for R2 and R16.


Things get a little muddy because the Integral & Trianglulum ref designators don't match. At the beginning of this thread, I was talking about both pedals. For the purpose of this discussion, let's focus on the Triangulum.

Q2, R9, R10, D1 and D2 get removed and nothing goes in their place. You could reconfigure R10 as an anti-pop resistor, but it's not really necessary since the stomp switch grounds the board input in bypass mode.

Q1 can be removed, but we need to add jumpers, lift an IC lead and change some resistors. A lot of effort to save one transistor. Make your build easy, leave Q1 alone.



You're very welcome.

Perfect. Answers everything.

A legend. Appreciate your time.

Thanks again