SpringReverbFan1234
New member
- Build Rating
- 5.00 star(s)
Here's my two PPCB builds, in one build report. Both pedals work perfectly (and sound good) without any issues. They were built with semiconductors from trustworthy sources. With that said, this is written more from the perspective of my final assembly, rather than how the pedals sound or component selection.
First build is a Cataclysm Delay. This one I drilled on my own. I recycled an orange enclosure that previously housed a buffer I made. So there were a few extra holes to deal with. An LED bezel went into a previous hole in the center and 8 holes got drilled fresh.
I used the pre-existing side jack holes to solder two pins. lol. My drill spacing for the new pots was slightly off, and this helped keep them in the right spot. Guess I got lucky. I finished soldering the pots on the other side after taking the board back out.
To cover up the extra holes in the enclosure I put copper tape over them on the inside, then electrical tape over that. This is what's visible in the top photo. Later I put some filler in the outside of the holes and covered them with blue tape / white labels.
The blue really sticks out visually but the tape feels nicer to grab onto than a rough spot. The knobs were originally going to be black but these ones stayed on because they look like peanut butter cups.
Second build is a Kliche using a drilled enclosure from Tayda. The color is Champagne. Still haven't made labels for it yet but this is the front:
The tayda drill template has the DC jack as 8.1mm, which is for a small lumberg style jack. Those jacks don't have a switched lug for a battery, which I want to add someday. I didn't catch this before I ordered so I drilled out the hole to fit a big jack. The jack ended up right on top of the pot cover but it still fits. The rest of the drill template is good but I think it could have pots/led/switch moved down like 0.5-1mm to give a hair more clearance on the top jacks. (Important sidenote: I need to figure out how to design tayda drill templates to take advantage of the flattened sides on DC jacks.)
The Kliche pcb includes a 3pdt board but technically only a dpdt switch is necessary. So that's what I went with and haven't had any problems.
I used some out-of-spec caps to get the values called for. For example a 100nf cap that actually measures as 89nf is used as an 82nf. Everything I used measured within 10% of the design specs.
In conclusion, both pedals were easy to assemble and I had a lot of fun building them. Thanks for reading this and looking at my builds.
First build is a Cataclysm Delay. This one I drilled on my own. I recycled an orange enclosure that previously housed a buffer I made. So there were a few extra holes to deal with. An LED bezel went into a previous hole in the center and 8 holes got drilled fresh.
I used the pre-existing side jack holes to solder two pins. lol. My drill spacing for the new pots was slightly off, and this helped keep them in the right spot. Guess I got lucky. I finished soldering the pots on the other side after taking the board back out.
To cover up the extra holes in the enclosure I put copper tape over them on the inside, then electrical tape over that. This is what's visible in the top photo. Later I put some filler in the outside of the holes and covered them with blue tape / white labels.
The blue really sticks out visually but the tape feels nicer to grab onto than a rough spot. The knobs were originally going to be black but these ones stayed on because they look like peanut butter cups.
Second build is a Kliche using a drilled enclosure from Tayda. The color is Champagne. Still haven't made labels for it yet but this is the front:
The tayda drill template has the DC jack as 8.1mm, which is for a small lumberg style jack. Those jacks don't have a switched lug for a battery, which I want to add someday. I didn't catch this before I ordered so I drilled out the hole to fit a big jack. The jack ended up right on top of the pot cover but it still fits. The rest of the drill template is good but I think it could have pots/led/switch moved down like 0.5-1mm to give a hair more clearance on the top jacks. (Important sidenote: I need to figure out how to design tayda drill templates to take advantage of the flattened sides on DC jacks.)
The Kliche pcb includes a 3pdt board but technically only a dpdt switch is necessary. So that's what I went with and haven't had any problems.
I used some out-of-spec caps to get the values called for. For example a 100nf cap that actually measures as 89nf is used as an 82nf. Everything I used measured within 10% of the design specs.
In conclusion, both pedals were easy to assemble and I had a lot of fun building them. Thanks for reading this and looking at my builds.