Until I looked at Dead end fx…….

I just had a UV print done for their spring reverb. I don't think I will get to it for months though.

WRT to the OP, there are lots of power supplies that can deliver 18v on one port. But I don't think there are any that allow for switching to AC. It will likely require a separate adapter which is kind of annoying.
 

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Yeah, the def have some cool stuff, but the ring mod was a circuit that I’ve been wanting so as soon as I saw that I put the blinders on and just hit that section. It is surprising the size of enclosure required for a circuit that has a relatively small BOM. Those regulators and 1000uf caps do take up some space. I’m pretty good with the off board drilling. I typically rely on the good ol graph paper. I did find a wall wart on Amazon for ring security systems that outputs 18v AC, I just have to add the plug.
 
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WRT to the OP, there are lots of power supplies that can deliver 18v on one port. But I don't think there are any that allow for switching to AC. It will likely require a separate adapter which is kind of annoying.
Depending on the circuit in question, you could possibly use a DC convertor in a similar arrangement to the power section of the Aion IVP pcb (as detailed in page 13) to eliminate the need for a 2.1mm AC supply, which is easy to mistake for a DC supply and destroy shit with
 
I mean, 18vac is like, really simple.

If you wanna go super high end DIY, just get one of these, throw it in an enclosure with a IEC on one side and whatever plug in the other.

BOOM. Easy.


AC to AC is EASY. All you need is a step down transformer.

AC to DC....less so. Old school is to use a step down transformer into a rectifier bridge, but that results in an output voltage that can float around based on the current draw of the circuit. Regulated linear power supplies are pretty easy to design, and can be extremely quiet. BUT...they create a lot of heat and are VERY inefficient.

Then there's Switched Mode power supplies...and you basically need an EE degree to design a good one. Properly designed, they can perform with very little noise and can be very efficient.

Personally, I think the best way to go about differing voltage requirements is to utilize different connectors for each input. Or...if that isn't an option, use some good 3x heat shrink and color code the ends. Hell, one could even use resistor color codes if one was so inclined...

Or there's always label makers that print on heat shrink tubing. My dymo rhino does that pretty well.
 
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