Vacuum-dehydrating hygroscopic components...
- Thread starter Stickman393
- Start date
Stickman393
Well-known member
Yessir! Shoot, at this scale a peltier cooling system would do the trick.
It'll suck down current like a teenager at a disreputable open bar, all right, but it'd work.
Lets make the most power hungry fuzz face ever. The kind of thing that makes the lights dim when you plug it in. Hell yeah.
It'll suck down current like a teenager at a disreputable open bar, all right, but it'd work.
Lets make the most power hungry fuzz face ever. The kind of thing that makes the lights dim when you plug it in. Hell yeah.
Stickman393
Well-known member
My next trick will be doing the same thing to carbon composition resistors that have drifted high.
Those things are fairly porous and tend to suck up moisture if not stored wisely. I throw a desiccant packet in with all my CCs.
One of my little projects that I've adopted for myself is buying up all the vintage crybabies so nobody else can have one. I call this strategy the "de beers".
Anywho, as I've been documenting and yada blahing these things, I've been measuring each resistor to see what's gone out of spec. Then, I replace with a suitable 1/2 watt CC.
Which means I'm gonna have a ton of carbon composition resistors that might have drifted from heat, or might have drifted from moisture. I'll make the next one a bit more scientific with like...ya know...little things like accurate measured values before and after.
I suspect that these 2N4105s are not going to be particularly useful. Which is a bummer, but not unexpected. Always take a chance when ya buy vintage components. I'll keep em around and give em all a round to confirm the leakage values.
Those things are fairly porous and tend to suck up moisture if not stored wisely. I throw a desiccant packet in with all my CCs.
One of my little projects that I've adopted for myself is buying up all the vintage crybabies so nobody else can have one. I call this strategy the "de beers".
Anywho, as I've been documenting and yada blahing these things, I've been measuring each resistor to see what's gone out of spec. Then, I replace with a suitable 1/2 watt CC.
Which means I'm gonna have a ton of carbon composition resistors that might have drifted from heat, or might have drifted from moisture. I'll make the next one a bit more scientific with like...ya know...little things like accurate measured values before and after.
I suspect that these 2N4105s are not going to be particularly useful. Which is a bummer, but not unexpected. Always take a chance when ya buy vintage components. I'll keep em around and give em all a round to confirm the leakage values.
Stickman393
Well-known member
This experiment was a dud, unfortunately. No differences observed.
Maybe adding a heating pad underneath might help. Though that's assuming that the presence of water is the cause of the leakage: which is just a poorly supported hypothesis at this point.
Heatsinks...its possible. Plenty of germs have them built in, or they're designed to be mounted to an enclosure to act as a heat sink.
But the amount of dissipation in an average fuzz pedal doesn't really move the needle in terms of heating up the components. To this end, one means of creating a more consistent fuzz box that is used in a pedal I can't recall the name of is to use a couple of restors as heaters in close proximity to the transistors.
IF one wanted to make a real current hog of a pedal, a peltier setup could keep the transistors frosty.
Or one could simply build The Mechanic. Though I doubt something as leaky as a transistor from this batch would work in that.
Maybe adding a heating pad underneath might help. Though that's assuming that the presence of water is the cause of the leakage: which is just a poorly supported hypothesis at this point.
Heatsinks...its possible. Plenty of germs have them built in, or they're designed to be mounted to an enclosure to act as a heat sink.
But the amount of dissipation in an average fuzz pedal doesn't really move the needle in terms of heating up the components. To this end, one means of creating a more consistent fuzz box that is used in a pedal I can't recall the name of is to use a couple of restors as heaters in close proximity to the transistors.
IF one wanted to make a real current hog of a pedal, a peltier setup could keep the transistors frosty.
Or one could simply build The Mechanic. Though I doubt something as leaky as a transistor from this batch would work in that.
Stickman393
Well-known member
Bitches. Well then I guess I just need to make a fuzz face with indirect evaporative cooling.
I think the issue is actually oxidation, which is caused by moisture, but can't be reversed by removing the moisture.
Stickman393
Well-known member
I've been seeing the Moff Fuzz in the drawing board.
Reminds me that I need to make my Grandma Turducken Fuzz a reality.
Could be!
Though I gotta say: I've got some Tungsram AC125s that are heavily oxidized, and they're just about as leaky as the Tungsram OC1075s that I've got that look near brand new. Both batches have quite a bit of leakage for relatively small gain values.
Its something that I haven't gotten a solid answer on that is eating away at the back of my brain. Though perhaps I'm looking at it through the wrong lens. High leakage isnt necessarily something that will brick a device: it simply reduces the usable range that device can operate in.
I'm approaching this from the perspective of "Why does leakage on these transistors seem to get worse over time even when not used?". Maybe that isn't necessarily the case. Then again, it's clear that tin whiskers can form while devices sit idle, maybe those contribute.
Its probably beyond my skill set and knowledge base to really be able to come to an answer myself.
Gray/grey bench did a video(I think) where he zapped some germs to try and alleviate the whiskers. It was some year back.
Wait, is it Grandma's Turducken, or Grandma is Turducken?