Wah heel bypass Idea

[Paul.Ruby]

If you want to make the 555 based board work, do this. Leave out the red-X components. Wire the reed switch as the green lines between pins 3 and 8 of the 555 IC socket. BUT, polarity is backwards, so, do not connect anything to "IN" on the module; Connect the input jack to the input of the wah AND to the OUT on the relay module; Connect the output of the wah to the "JACK IN" on the module. JACK OUT on the module is still the output. Of course... Programming is more fun. I would use the intelligent module and program it.

Also leave out Q1 and R4, assuming there is no LED. If there is an LED, keep in mind polarity is backwards now.

 

[Paul.Ruby]

 

[RobotZombie23]

there is no need to reverse the in out wires. I think your way would be for a normally open switch I'm a using normally closed switch.

I would like to throw that ne555 back in there and make it delay the bypass... but that's for another time...

It's working wired like this: except I can't get the led to work but thats ok


Thank you everyone

 

[Stickman393]

If he's using the non-latching simple relay bypass, it uses an NE555, not a microcontroller.

Using a will be easier. Basically, you want the reed switch to energize the relay coil, which is component K1.1 on the below schematic.

The basic idea here is to route vref (should be about 4.5Vdc) through the reed switch (FS in the diagram) to the coil of the relay.

The simplest way to achieve this is to remove the NE555 and replace R3 with a jumper.

Since your switch is Normally Closed this is the order of operations:

Normal state (closed)= wah pedal is in use (heel magnet is not "switching" the reed switch)
Vref is able to pass FS
K1.1 is Energized
Relay common is connected to Normally Open Contacts (this is your effect send and return on the relay board)

Energized Reed switch (open) = Wah pedal is at rest, heel down position. (Magnet is "switching" the reed switch)
Vref cannot pass FS
K1.1 is de-energized
Relay common is connected to normally closed contacts (this is your bypass route)

Now...this has some drawbacks. If you quickly cycle between engaging and disengaging the reed switch your contacts can flutter. There's a chance of burning up the coil if done in rapid succession...at least, that's been my experience with much larger devices. Not sure how much it matters in this sort of use case.

Someone who's really clever could probably steer ya towards a way to utilize the NE555 to give you a short time delay (nanoseconds-milliseconds) between the reed switch triggering and the relay contacts switching. I cant say I'm familiar enough with the NE555 to know how to accomplish something like that offhand.

 

[Stickman393]

I don't recommend removing C1, honestly. That guy will give you a little buffer between when the switch is opened and when the relay contacts open, yeah?

Otherwise the aforementioned fluttering issue could be a lot worse. The value could be potentially be reduced if ya find that it takes too long for the relay to revert to normal position.

 

[Stickman393]

YO! Another thing:

That relay has a 4.5Vdc coil. VCC is 9volts. DO NOT USE VCC. You want to use Vref. That will be 4.5VDC.

Trust me. You'll burn up your relay coil like what like woah.

 

[RobotZombie23]

You want to use Vref.

I tried hooking up to lug 6 and 2 of where the ne555 used to be for vref. Didn't work. I'm just leaving it the way it is. If it ain't broke don't fix it. If it does break I'll just have to figure something else out.

 

[Stickman393]

That last sentence is true.

Just sayin'. Ya probably got a good 8.4Vdc acting on that coil after the schottkey. A good 186% of the rated voltage. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when.

 

[RobotZombie23]

That last sentence is true.

Just sayin'. Ya probably got a good 8.4Vdc acting on that coil after the schottkey. A good 186% of the rated voltage. It's not a matter of if, it's a matter of when.

Can I just throw a resistor in there to bring the voltage down?

 

[Feral Feline]

I'd throw in two resistors to form a voltage divider, one to ground the other supplying whatever's within the spec the relay requires.

I'm not as learned about relays as Stickman and others, though.