Walrus Deep Six/Sea Lion tone control

That's a pretty big bag of worms you want to open.

Have you got the new schematic?

What sort of tone control do you want?
You could add a muff style tone control with a PedalPCB board, or even just solder the parts to the back of a pot.

Baxandall active, James passive. Rat style vs Tube Screamer ...

An active BMT at the end would give a lot of versatility and help combat the perceived loss of treble inherent in so many compressor designs. Given that, something like a SWTC (stupidly wonderful tone control) might not be the best choice.

Fender tone stack vs Marshall and active vs passive with opamps vs transistors.


I guess the best way to choose one is to figure out what your wants are vs needs as well as what will fit in your intended enclosure...
 
Feral Feline said:
That's a pretty big bag of worms you want to open.

Have you got the new schematic?

What sort of tone control do you want?
You could add a muff style tone control with a PedalPCB board, or even just solder the parts to the back of a pot.

Baxandall active, James passive. Rat style vs Tube Screamer ...

An active BMT at the end would give a lot of versatility and help combat the perceived loss of treble inherent in so many compressor designs. Given that, something like a SWTC (stupidly wonderful tone control) might not be the best choice.

Fender tone stack vs Marshall and active vs passive with opamps vs transistors.


I guess the best way to choose one is to figure out what your wants are vs needs as well as what will fit in your intended enclosure...
Click to expand...
Good call. I was aiming for whatever they use in the actually V3 which according to their website is a bass cut that increases bass as it is turned up.
 
Maybe, but I'm not savvy enough to see where a Timmy-style bass control could be implemented; the tone control would have to be outside of or after the detection portion of the circuit, lest it affect how the compressor's reacting to the input signal.

Might be something as simple as adding a pot in series with R16 and making R16 ???k? No idea what values to try for the pot and R16, but the stock corner freq of C/R (1u/1M) HPF there is 0.2Hz. Okay, so after some kajiggering with values — if you make R16 1k, (1uF/1k) you get a corner freq of 159.2Hz...


Yet another bonehead simple way would be to make the output cap (C9 1u) a 10n with a parallel 1u blended back in via a pot.
The corner freq of the output cap and level maxed is 1.6Hz, changing C9 to a 10n gets you 159.2Hz. With the level set at half that, 50k, the stock 1u gives 3.2Hz while 10n yields 318.5Hz.


Without a trace of the original circuit, I'd just tack on something like a simple BMT on to the end of the Sea Lion, the PedalPCB Cold Turkey EQ or Box and All EQ. Skip the level control of the Sea Lion, just run a wire from that PCB's Level-3 pad to the input of the Cold Turkey and use the Cold Turkey's Level as your master vol.

IN Jack > 3PDT-in > Sea Lion > Cold Turkey/Box and All EQ > 3PDT-out > OUT Jack.

If you need something more compact, the aforementioned Muff (PedalPCB's PedalBlock Tone Control) could be tacked on to the end. If you experience too much vol loss, then add a clean boost after that.
 
Feral Feline said:
Maybe, but I'm not savvy enough to see where a Timmy-style bass control could be implemented; the tone control would have to be outside of or after the detection portion of the circuit, lest it affect how the compressor's reacting to the input signal.

Might be something as simple as adding a pot in series with R16 and making R16 ???k? No idea what values to try for the pot and R16, but the stock corner freq of C/R (1u/1M) HPF there is 0.2Hz. Okay, so after some kajiggering with values — if you make R16 1k, (1uF/1k) you get a corner freq of 159.2Hz...


Yet another bonehead simple way would be to make the output cap (C9 1u) a 10n with a parallel 1u blended back in via a pot.
The corner freq of the output cap and level maxed is 1.6Hz, changing C9 to a 10n gets you 159.2Hz. With the level set at half that, 50k, the stock 1u gives 3.2Hz while 10n yields 318.5Hz.


Without a trace of the original circuit, I'd just tack on something like a simple BMT on to the end of the Sea Lion, the PedalPCB Cold Turkey EQ or Box and All EQ. Skip the level control of the Sea Lion, just run a wire from that PCB's Level-3 pad to the input of the Cold Turkey and use the Cold Turkey's Level as your master vol.

IN Jack > 3PDT-in > Sea Lion > Cold Turkey/Box and All EQ > 3PDT-out > OUT Jack.

If you need something more compact, the aforementioned Muff (PedalPCB's PedalBlock Tone Control) could be tacked on to the end. If you experience too much vol loss, then add a clean boost after that.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. Sounds like it might be a feat not worth going into with this one. The muff style tone stack might be alright and the others you suggested would also be cool if I wasn't trying to keep it in a 125B.
 
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