Which types of capacitors for Captain Bit

[iNflt10n]

Hello everyone, I am brand new here so pardon my ignorance please.

I was looking to source parts for two different pedals so I have made a spreadsheet to better analyze the parts needed, the Box and All EQ and a Captain Bit. The parts list on the two pedals are a little different, with the Box and All having more information. I see that in the example of the 1u capacitance value, there are two prescribed capacitors in the Box and All, but no stipulations in the Captain Bit. Is the Electrolytic option the desirable choice to use?

Thank you.

 

[Brett]

If the footprint on the board is round, it's most likely electrolytic (could be tantalum as well). If the footprint is rectangular, it's designed for a film capacitor.

You'll want to look at the board and determine how many of each type you'll need.

 

[Brett]

Oh, and welcome to the forums, btw!

 

[iNflt10n]

Also, if anyone has any hints as to what to do about the TM011-R or the JRC386D which I cannot find anywhere. Is there a way to cross reference components to find suitable substitutes?

 

[iNflt10n]

If the footprint on the board is round, it's most likely electrolytic (could be tantalum as well). If the footprint is rectangular, it's designed for a film capacitor.

You'll want to look at the board and determine how many of each type you'll need.

That is so simple and logical. Thank you kindly.

 

[bronomo]

Also, if anyone has any hints as to what to do about the TM011-R or the JRC386D which I cannot find anywhere. Is there a way to cross reference components to find suitable substitutes?

View attachment 72319

I think the following: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/42TM011-RC
and JRC386D can be subbed with LM386-3.

 

[iNflt10n]

I think the following: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/42TM011-RC
and JRC386D can be subbed with LM386-3.

Thank you, I was unsure about the 42TM011, I was afraid the "42" might have indicated some vast difference.

As for the LM386s what would you suggest that I look for in the data sheets to make an educated guess as to which option to choose from?

 

[bronomo]

The top one is surface mount, the other two are roughly equivalent from what I can tell, the cheaper one is a different manufacturer and lead free plated.

These appear to both be the LM386N-1 equivalents. I'm not sure the difference between -1, -3 and -4 other than hand waving about power dissipation and the -4 has a wider range of operating voltage. If one knew what they were doing the curves in the datasheet probably lend insight.

 

[darwin999]

These are apparently from Tayda:

• The first is a SOIC surface mount chip, which are smaller and thus requires real soldering skills. Doable once experienced, but definitely not when starting. And most importantly, your Captain Bit PCB is designed/sized for a PDIP.
• #2 and #3 are PDIP, that's what you want. They are larger and easier to handle. Get a PDIP-8 socket and solder that to the PCB, and then plug this chip into the socket. That way you don't risk damage to the IC by soldering, and you can easily remove or swap IC's in the future.
• Between #2 and #3, I would choose #2 because it's supposedly from National Semiconductor, a top vendor (now part of Texas Instruments).

With regard to IC's and transistors, you will surely learn that there are a lot of fakes out there - so low price doesn't mean a good deal, not does high price mean authenticity. You have to learn which vendors to trust. If you're in the US, 3 of the most trustworthy vendors are Mouser, DigiKey and Newark Electronics - their stuff is always 100.000% legit, but they do not stock out of production stuff. Tayda is great for enclosures, resistors, capacitors, pots, switches and the like - but when it comes to ICs and transistors I would rate them good to very good, but not 100%. They do sell the occasional fake. This is a common chip, so you're likely ok here. But fakes are bad news, they don't just waste $ but they waste a ton of time debugging why your box doesn't work.

Good luck.

Note added: And also welcome to the forum!

 

[Feral Feline]

If it's in the audio path, I don't care if it's a round outline on the PCB for a 1µF capacitor, — I'll stuff a 1µF or 2µ2 film-cap in place of the electrolytic if it'll fit.
If it doesn't fit, I'll use tantalum.

Also, welcome to the forums.

 

[iNflt10n]

These are apparently from Tayda:

• The first is a SOIC surface mount chip, which are smaller and thus requires real soldering skills. Doable once experienced, but definitely not when starting. And most importantly, your Captain Bit PCB is designed/sized for a PDIP.
• #2 and #3 are PDIP, that's what you want. They are larger and easier to handle. Get a PDIP-8 socket and solder that to the PCB, and then plug this chip into the socket. That way you don't risk damage to the IC by soldering, and you can easily remove or swap IC's in the future.
• Between #2 and #3, I would choose #2 because it's supposedly from National Semiconductor, a top vendor (now part of Texas Instruments).

With regard to IC's and transistors, you will surely learn that there are a lot of fakes out there - so low price doesn't mean a good deal, not does high price mean authenticity. You have to learn which vendors to trust. If you're in the US, 3 of the most trustworthy vendors are Mouser, DigiKey and Newark Electronics - their stuff is always 100.000% legit, but they do not stock out of production stuff. Tayda is great for enclosures, resistors, capacitors, pots, switches and the like - but when it comes to ICs and transistors I would rate them good to very good, but not 100%. They do sell the occasional fake. This is a common chip, so you're likely ok here. But fakes are bad news, they don't just waste $ but they waste a ton of time debugging why your box doesn't work.

Good luck.

Note added: And also welcome to the forum!

Good to know. Thanks, I'll steer clear from eBay.