Delegate compressor - boneyard edition and Parasite Wah

Amplified Parts has them as well.

It's definitely worth checking the used market for an old/broken Crybaby, in a lot of cases you can find one for less than the cost of an empty shell.

The only issue I had with the type linked above is that the included screws for mounting the PCB weren't the correct size, otherwise it went together fairly easily. I think other folks have run into different issues though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fig
Amplified Parts has them as well.

It's definitely worth checking the used market for an old/broken Crybaby, in a lot of cases you can find one for less than the cost of an empty shell.

The only issue I had with the type linked above is that the included screws for mounting the PCB weren't the correct size, otherwise it went together fairly easily. I think other folks have run into different issues though.

I think the manufacturer of these enclosure has a bin of lose mixed parts, at packaging they take a handful of parts and put that in the box.

I don`t think I have ever heard of anyone getting all the right parts :D

It`s ridiculous, really !
 
Looks exactly the same as the Chinese one I got... I`m willing to bet that there are missing bits and piece...
 
  • Haha
Reactions: fig
NICE! Have you bought one from them? How's the fit & finish?
No, but I am considering trying one. I got an old Morley from theBay, with power adapter, manual for $30 and gutted it for another project.

Edit: Aww heck...I'll get one and give my opinion.
 
No, but I am considering trying one. I got an old Morley from theBay, with power adapter, manual for $30 and gutted it for another project.

Edit: Aww heck...I'll get one and give my opinion.
If I can predict the parts you`ll be missing do I win anything ? Maybe that should be the subject of your next contest.

My entry would be:

1 screw
The stomp switch pad
A few washers

:D
 
  • Like
Reactions: fig
I bet it’s the same thing as the eBay/Amazon/Alibaba/TaoBao ones, but that Tubes&More has sorted through all there stock of them and made incomplete ones complete, and swapped incorrect parts for correct items.

Still, there’s no getting away from their cheapness — so if I win the new contest just give me a wallered used Crybaby, Demon, Morley, Vox etc…
 
I bet it’s the same thing as the eBay/Amazon/Alibaba/TaoBao ones, but that Tubes&More has sorted through all there stock of them and made incomplete ones complete, and swapped incorrect parts for correct items.

Still, there’s no getting away from their cheapness — so if I win the new contest just give me a wallered used Crybaby, Demon, Morley, Vox etc…
Exactly, like the issues I had with mine. Self tapping screws longer than the depth of the hole in the enclosure. Guess what happened, snap-crackle-pop I sheered 2 screws !!! GRRrrrrrr !
 
When a screw doesn't want to turn, applying more force will not end well.

I am not a fan of self-tapping screws. They are a sign that the manufacturer took a shortcut to save a few pennies. Even when they're working right, self-tapping screws don't do nearly as good a job as a proper tap. A set of taps is not expensive and well worth it IMHO. I end up chasing the threads on Tayda powder-coated boxes because they usually get a shit-ton of paint in the holes.
 
When a screw doesn't want to turn, applying more force will not end well.

I am not a fan of self-tapping screws. They are a sign that the manufacturer took a shortcut to save a few pennies. Even when they're working right, self-tapping screws don't do nearly as good a job as a proper tap. A set of taps is not expensive and well worth it IMHO. I end up chasing the threads on Tayda powder-coated boxes because they usually get a shit-ton of paint in the holes.
Tell me about it, however, I didn't have to put more force, it was hard to get in at the get go and once it bottom out, just boom too late...

And yes, self tapping screws are a non-sense in aluminum casing, they're probably only good to do metal sheeting....

A set of taps is in my list of stuff I keep forgetting to buy !
 
If I can predict the parts you`ll be missing do I win anything ? Maybe that should be the subject of your next contest.

My entry would be:

1 screw
The stomp switch pad
A few washers

:D
Ordered. I could call the contest :" I told you so fig"...tell you waht <---huh?, huh? see waht I did there?
If you're correct, I'll put $25 towards your shell purchase and you can say "I told you so fig!" If you're wrong however :unsure: you must endure;

I told you so.
-fig

:ROFLMAO:
 
$25 towards your shell purchase
Shell as in wah ?

No way, I've suffered enough with this, I ain't doing that again... Next time if I build any type of expression pedal, I'm carving one out of wood !

Edit: And it will be tone wood, so even better !
 
  • Haha
Reactions: fig
Typically, the board will give clues. The caps that are round with polarity listed are usually electrolytic.
Ceramics are mostly in the pf range.
Film cap values run between ceramic and electrolytic mostly in the nf range
Electrolytic in the uf range.

There is overlap in values. (the 1u caps on this build for example. Some are meant to be electrolytic, some film).
My first few builds I used a lot of ceramic caps in place of film because frankly I didn't know any better. I don't do it anymore but I gotta say that the pedals still sound phenomenal. Someday maybe I'll swap them out but for now they ain't broke so no need to fix it imho. Am I missing something?
 
  • Like
Reactions: fig
I wouldn't bother if they sound good. The only time type matters is when specific polarity is spec'd. Then you'd probably want to choose an electrolytic, tantalum, or a "bi-polar" type.
 
I wouldn't bother if they sound good. The only time type matters is when specific polarity is spec'd. Then you'd probably want to choose an electrolytic, tantalum, or a "bi-polar" type.
My choice is tantalum, cuz it gives your pedals a ballzy sound !

7ae8c31d-b58a-4267-9a47-5d5ee1236a2a-jpeg.21248



:D
 
Back
Top Bottom