What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

I have a small arbor press (1 or 2 tons) and have used it successfully to press letters. Both on soft aluminum (1.5mm thick sheet) and on die-cast enclosures. These presses don't work in binary fashion... no pressure or max. There's something in between too ;)
Do you prefer the arbor press to hammer-punching the letters?

You're right of course about the fine control on an arbor press. I have a large hydraulic press too, but I always prefer to use the arbor press if I can since you can feel what's happening through the handle.

For punching I guess I was thinking more about the ramp-up on the arbor press than the total pressure. If you're trying not to bend or break something sometimes a quick application of force beats a slow one. Like working on cars, I'm much more likely to snap bolts pulling on wrench with an extended handle than with an impact gun. If you’re backing up the surface you’re punching that’s a non-issue though.

My working height concern on that Amazon press seems to have been wrong as well. Unless you’re using very large stamps I think 5.9 inches would get the job done. If you’re looking for a press for stamping I’d say go for it @drgonzo1969.

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Yes, especially with die-cast enclosures. It's easier to position the punches quite precisely (you can have your head very close to the workpiece, even while pressing), there is no noise.
I had a job for a few years doing re-certification pressure-testing on high pressure gas cylinders (CO2, scuba, welding gas, etc). Once they pass testing they get stamped with a test date and the testers license number. It wasn't a great job, but there was something satisfying about bonking those numbers in with a big hammer. Might be part of why I'm still partial to the hammer. I do like the idea of setting up some kind of fence or alignment jig on the arbor press though.
 
Mmm late night heartburn. Deciding on some build a e s t h e t i c s

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I'm inclined towards red, chromatic because balance?

Also, related to my odd knob purchases, I forgot I also bought four of these…

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So might replace these

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With them

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Not really a chickenhead fan…

Also a part of me wants to paint that faceplate and then etch the controls graphics. Won't cost a thing other than time.
 
Deaf-innately go with the knob-swap on the amp, makes it look even more retro dan der chicky-chickies nnn bork bork.

For the WetBar, go for the red-sw as that has been proven to give more 2nd-order harmonics to the clipipping, which is musically more pleasing than the brash 5th-order harmonics of the black-swuartches.
 
Made some standoffs. Turns out there's a lip, but it makes placing it level much easier. Might secure them with magnets if I have some small enough, otherwise bluetack should do'er.

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Looks like you may need to tweak your belt tension a little..... if you do any big prints they will likely show up very wavy.... That's a pretty good bit of ringing.. What printer you running Jessinator? The seam is bunching up a bit too much too..
 
Finished my onboard preamp install in this one at 7AM yesterday, now delivered to the luthier and on the way to NAMM booth #4730 next week:

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Thanks to my funky looking but very practical modular build format I was able to do some board level mods without having to remove anything from the bass. Offboard wiring haters would be crying their eyes out if they saw the inside of this thing though! :ROFLMAO:
 
Ender 3 Pro. Last time I adjusted the belt was a couple years ago at least.
yah.. either your belts are a tad loose or your eccentric wheels have some flat spots causing the ringing... I still have my ender 3 pro with a bunch of mods..... pretty slow compared to my other 2 k1max and K1 , but it's dialed in so good that I run small stuff on it all the time.
 
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